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Routes in 3. Madigan Area

Brown School T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
DLM Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forist Grump T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Birthday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madigan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nibroc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stone Dust Torture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 510 total, 32/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 26, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is climb#5 in the "guide-pamphlet". Although listed as a "sport" climb, there are gear placements.

A lovely 2 pitch climb with bolted anchors. Start on the clean face directly behind the broken tree.

P1 - Six bolts to an anchor. I'd say the crux is up around bolt #5 or so. Maybe I missed the easiest way, but thought it closer to 5.7 than 5.6.

P2 - After some thin climbing directly above the belay, up and left-ish following 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor.

Descent - Rap the route.

Protection

Draws, optional gear is mostly small & medium cams

Photos

Mark NH
03053
Mark NH   03053
Did this today and thought it felt on the easier 5.6 side. Like Robert said - you miss something it’s harder you find something it’s easier. I musta found holds! Oct 4, 2017
Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
 
Tom Sawyer   North Conway, NH
 
I led this fine climb after doing Lichen It and feel it is a bit more challenging - maybe a 5.6+ or 5.7-. This was my 2nd lead on the climb. Instead of starting on the ledge to the left and below the 1st bolt, which I did the first time, I started from directly below the bolt. A bit more risky because of a potential ground fall (especially for this climber who is in his 70's). I did manage to get a very small cam in shortly after leaving the ground but did not feel it was bomb-proof. May try a small nut next time. Still a very enjoyable climb. Jul 7, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
I agree. I put it in as 5.6 since the guide (and thus the FA-er's?) listed it as that, but (personally) felt it was 5.6+ to easy 5.7.

Of course, on slab like this you can miss one crimper, or one foothold, and what is 5.5 with the hold becomes 5.7 without it.

MtnPrjct is now set up to take into consideration the "suggested ratings" posted by other climber's when they "tick" it off, if enough folk think it 5.7 the "official" rating will change. Jul 29, 2016
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
5.7
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
5.7
I thought this route was a grade or two harder than 5.6. Thin and tricky at spots, especially on the first pitch. Double ropes will just about get you down in one rappel. Jul 28, 2016