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Routes in 3. Madigan Area

Brown School T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
DLM Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forist Grump T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Birthday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madigan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nibroc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stone Dust Torture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave and Deedee Kelly
Page Views: 330 total · 12/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 27, 2016 with updates from Dave Kelly
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

START - about 20 ft up and left of Madigan, below a dirty-looking overlap.

COMMENT - Seldom, if ever, have I seen a piece of rock that appears as if it will yield only "ugly" climbing that actually "goes" with beautiful moves!

P1 - Climb up to the overlap (gear) then climb up the right side flakes & cracks passing a bolt, then onto the nice face above with gear and bolt(s) about 100 ft The "Guide" and hence the FA-er's, give it a 5.8 but I thought is a bit easier.

Descent - Rap the route

Protection

Draws and some gear, mostly small-to-medium cams.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
One hundred feet of buckety goodness! I suspect the grade varies quite a bit according to one's reach -- at 6'4" I did very few moves that weren't off positive holds, definitely not 5.8 and maybe on the easier side of 5.7. My wife, ten inches shorter, found some 5.8. Sep 23, 2018

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