Type: Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt and Kathy Barker - 2015
Page Views: 1,952 total · 30/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 27, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is the furthest left route (climb #1) in the "guide pamphlet". Other climbs further left have now been put in; see "South End Area".

Pitches 5 & 6 are truly beautiful pitches.

APPROACH -About 75 +/- ft up and left from the start of Madigan. There is now a branch of the main climber's path that goes directly up to this climb.

START- on the face 15 +/- feet right of the large, right-facing corner composed of large flakes (photo).

Six pitches to the top. (See "Guide pamphlet"), or use our description:

P1 - Climb (unprotected-the pitch's crux) up to a small( 6-inch) overlap about 15-20 ft up (gear, TCU). Climb over easily up to the first bolt. Then follow bolts up, with some zig-zagging, to anchor. 100 ft 5.6 PG-13/R? There may be an easier/safer way to Bolt #1.

P2 - The Guide says "follow easiest line" and that's a good idea below the first bolt which is about 35-40 ft up! This first bolt is sort of in the middle of a small, very smooth slab. I climbed a couple of feet Left of the bolt on smoothed flakes (sort of dike like) and felt it 5.7+ / 5.8-. Partner went up the slab, basically directly over the bolt (5.8 / 5.8+?) or to maintain the route at 5.7 take the easier way a few feet further right, then stepping back left to clip the higher bolt with a long reach.  A good place to use that quickdraw you have with two locking biners on it. Continue to anchor. 100 ft 5.7+/5.8 

P3 - Up easy slab, through gap in bushes to another easy slab, step off top onto dirt (bolt ! , photo) to anchor. This pitch is getting more and more “ iffy” as the dirt erodes/washes away.   85 ft 5.4 - 5.?  

P4 - Up easy slab above, staying slightly right, then more right towards trees. Pass by a double bolt anchor [ optional belay, but anchor is predominantly for the rap line ] and continue another 30-35 ft on very easy rock to a dbl bolt a chore at the base of the "beautiful slab." 140 ft 5.3 - 5.4 

P5 - (Variations 5a & 5b, There are three ways to do the 5th pitch) From the double bolt anchor at the base of the slab climb directly up passing a jutting, Right-facing flake [photo] (with bush just to the right) then onto the steeper, smooth slab above (bolt). Up the slab passing 2 bolts to a Left-facing flake (gear) and on to the anchor. The slab is very continuous 5.6 120 ft 5.6+ 

P5a - ("Rain It In" 5.8+ see COMMENT) From the dbl bolt anchor at the base of the slab, step 5-10 ft right and climb up sparsly-placed bolts (easier climbing slightly right), reaching the first bolt 25-30 ft up. ( “ 5.6 R+“)  Don’t blow the very run-out moves before this first bolt!  [ It is 10 feet right of the bush mentioned in P5.]  Now follow bolts up the even steeper and smoother slab about 5-10 ft right of the line of P5. 120 ft 5.8+ 

P5b - ("Sea of Bowls" 5.7 see COMMENT ) and now goes to its own anchor below the headwall) From the dbl bolt anchor at the base of the slab, climb  25 ft up and right and climb up via a quartz dike in pegmitite-type rock. Continue up easily to the start of the upper slab. Climb the clean, white-ish slab about 10 ft right of the line of P5a. To leave "Sea of Bowls" and return to DLM move left when you see the DLM anchor. 4 bolts and maybe some wire nut placements 120 ft 5.6 - 5.7 to the DLM anchor, or 200 ft to the upper anchors on the head wall. If you want to use the DLM anchor, it is suggested to go up to the 5th bolt, clip it and downclimb the very easy rock to the anchor, this provides protection for the second after he/she unclips the 4th bolt.

P6 DLM Route- From the anchor at the end of the 5th pitch, continue up the slab (bolts) to the headwall with 3 closely spaced bolts. Up this ( awkward, then thin moves, 5.7, considered the crux by FA party) and then walk 20 ft left in the woods to a double bolt anchor on a huge block. 125 ft, 5.7 - 5.8-? See also COMMENTs about possible alternative headwall ending to the left of the bolted line.

Descent - Rap the route, with a single 70m, or with double 60’s.  

Protection

Draws for the bolts. Gear placements here and there. We used nothing larger than a 0.5 (purple) Camalot-sized cam.

Photos