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Routes in 2. South End

All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Blind and Fully Baked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Subtle like Bob Ross T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whine and Lickher S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Matt & Kathy Barker
Page Views: 580 total, 35/month
Shared By: Ron Birk on Aug 1, 2016 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

START- At the same flat ground as Whine & Lickher, 25 ft down and right of "Bob Ross"

A great fun route not to be missed with great gear. It starts with featured rock but soon a crack shows up that you follow till the top. It's similar to Bombardment at Cathedral but a couple of grades easier. Shares the anchor with the other two routes in the area. 70m rope is needed for the rap.

Location

The middle route on this section.

Protection

Natural gear is plenty. A tricam useful in a pocket for the last blank section after the crack thins out. Single Rack to BD #1 and extra finger/mid sizes can help.

Photos

Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Tom Sawyer   North Conway, NH
  5.7
Very well protected climb with nuts and tricams. I did use one BD camelot higher up at the start of the crack. I felt that the crack was sustained enough to warrant the 5.7 rating. A wonderful climb. Well worth doing again. However I wish the anchor was a bit higher allowing for a more comfortable stance, but this does not detract from the quality of the climb. Aug 17, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
Superb pitch. The pocket between the top of the crack and the anchor is a custom fit for a #1 Tricam. Sep 29, 2016
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.6
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.6
Excellent climb for it's grade. Nice small-med wire placements in bottom half, than small-med cam options galore in second half. Sep 9, 2016
Steven Scherr
Boston
 
Steven Scherr   Boston
 
I couldn't agree more. This pitch was the highlight of the whole cliff in my opinion! Wonderful lead and I agree slightly easy for the grade. Aug 3, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
Except for the last 5.5-5.6 slab moves to the anchor that (maybe) could use a bolt*, this is the best first-trad lead of any climb near its grade. (That's a period at the end of the sentence...as in, like, potentially the best I've seen in 50+ years of climbing.)

. *OK, OK a tricam works, but not many beginning leaders have them.

Thanks for the cleaning job on the crack. It must have been work.

I'd give it a "5.6+" if the grade existed on MtnPrjct. I thought it easier than the 5.7's on the cliff like "Surveyor's" and "Berliner".

Oh yes, save at least one #1 (Red) Camalot for the "Pod" at the top of the crack. Other than that, if you had triples of 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75 you could probably place them all if you wanted to! Aug 3, 2016
beach
Portland, ME
 
beach   Portland, ME
 
best all gear pitch at the cliff I believe Aug 1, 2016