Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 44.47284, -71.1945
FA: Adam Beach and Friends
Page Views: 1,800 total · 15/month
Shared By: a beach on Aug 1, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A 70M rope ( or a second rope) is mandatory to rappel

Pitch 1: 5.6 Sport - 10 bolts to a ring anchor (~110 ft). If climbing the next pitches, continue past the anchor and belay at the large tree on the vegetated ledge

Note- Although the FAer/submitter gave pitch1 a 5.6, consensus seems to be settling on 5.7. The opening moves may be as thin as the crux, which is up where there are two very close bolts. R Hall, Admin.

Pitch 2: 5.6 Trad - Climb up through the tree ledge, clip two bolts and then traverse directly left on a blueberried foot ledge to the base of a dark slab. Climb past two more bolts and a hollow overlap to a ring anchor at the base of a finger crack (~110 ft)

Pitch 3:  5.5 Trad - Climb up the short crack, step right and climb past bolts on easy ground up to a ring anchor.

or

5.3 Trad - Up easy rock right of the crack, step left back towards the crack and continue to the top on very featured rock. (~70 ft)

I recommend combining Pitch 2 and 3 into a long pitch. 

Descent: Rappel the route with a 70M rope. A single 70m reaches from the P2 anchor, through the tree ledge to the P1 anchor.

Location Suggest change

The farthest left route, way up the hill. (See photo "Base Belay")

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and Small Cams to a BD .75, 10 quickdraws, a few alpine draws, little black tricam or .1/.2 cam is useful on pitch 2

Photos

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