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Routes in 2. South End

All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Blind and Fully Baked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Subtle like Bob Ross T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whine and Lickher S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Adam Beach and Friends
Page Views: 546 total · 31/month
Shared By: beach on Aug 1, 2016 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A 70M rope is mandatory to rappel

Pitch 1: 5.6 Sport - 10 bolts to a ring anchor (~110 ft). If climbing the next pitches, continue past the anchor and belay at the large tree on the vegetated ledge

Pitch 2: 5.6 Sport / Trad - Climb up through the tree ledge, clip two bolts and then traverse directly left on a foot ledge to the base of a dark slab. Climb past two more bolts and a hollow overlap to a ring anchor at the base of a finger crack (~110 ft)


Pitch 3:

5.6 Sport / Trad - Climb up the short crack, step right and run it out over easy ground up to a ring anchor.

or

5.3 Trad - step left back to the crack and continue to the top on very featured rock. (~70 ft)

I recommend combining Pitch 2 and 3 into a long pitch

Descent: Rappel the route with a 70M rope.

Location

The farthest left route, way up the hill.

Protection

Nuts and Small Cams to a BD .75, 10 quickdraws, a few alpine draws, black tricam is useful on pitch 2

Photos

Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
 
Tom Sawyer   North Conway, NH
 
I felt that the crux on P1 was well protected but thin making it a 5.7.
P2 seemed like a 5.6 and P3 seemed easier - more like 5.5.
A nice climb with great views of the Mahoosuc range. The bolts were well placed. Oct 1, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
Still a bit scruffy, especially on the upper pitches, but really fun. Sep 29, 2016
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
 
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
 
Looking forward checking out the new additional pitches! Sep 6, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7+
Yup..."WAY" up the hill. The path was quite steeper than expected, considering the rest of Mt Forist. However, these climbs are not to be missed! Aug 3, 2016