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Routes in 2. South End

All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Blind and Fully Baked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Subtle like Bob Ross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whine and Lickher S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Matt and Kathy Barker - 2015
Page Views: 303 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ron Birk on Aug 1, 2016 with updates from beach
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A fun bolted climb with featured rock on the first half. Shares the anchor with the other two routes in the area.

This is the first pitch to a 4 pitch line but as of now the upper pitches are loose, dirty, and have very poor anchors. The first pitch is good to go!

Note: 70m rope is needed. Tie a knot at the end and lower/belay from way up left.

Location

The right-most route of the three on this section.

It begins about 30 +/- feet down and right of the start of "Whine" & "Half Blind". Hiking up from the car to this section of cliff, it's the first climb you come to.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
We TR'd this after leading "Half Blind" but with the belayer still on the "Whine / Half Blind" base ledge. The climber scrambled over on the slab 25 ft and was then lowered to the ground on this climb. We used a 70m that has been measured as exactly 70m recently. (i.e. not 'cut long') However, I THINK that with this 70m rope we could not have top roped this with both the belayer and the climber on the ground at the base of "All Dogs".

Rating - maybe "5.6+" for the last few moves to the anchor.

What's the single bolt 20 feet right of the top-most bolt? It seems to just be there. A directional bolt for another climb not listed yet? Aug 3, 2016
slacker Barker
North Conway NH
slacker Barker   North Conway NH
This route actually goes to the top of the cliff. The last couple of pitches are very run out and adventurous. It ends on a lone bolt (with a quick link) above the crux overlap. It was done just for the adventure and to burn off steam.. Aug 10, 2016
Ben Townsend  
 
This might be my favorite of the routes on the South End. Seemed easy for the grade, maybe even easier than Subtle Like Bob Ross. I took small cams and was happy I did, especially near the top. Sep 29, 2016
Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Tom Sawyer   North Conway, NH
  5.7
Great quality rock. I'd probably rate it 5.7- if that was a choice. Easier than Half Blind and Full Baked. We only did P1. I appreciate all the work done by those who put up the routes on Mt F. and put the bolts in. A Big Thanks! Aug 17, 2017

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