Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad White & Matt Peer
Page Views: 218 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 26, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is climb #12 in the "guide."

START- At a dike of darkly-colored quartz (below climber in the photo) about 100-125 ft right of Madigan, and about 35 ft right of the "bottomless, pointed buttress" of Skate-y Cat (photo).

P1 - Up the quartz, follow bolts right, then climb straight up to a flake (fixed cam and additional gear possible) and on to the dbl bolt anchor. 100 ft 5.7

P2 - Climb 25+/- ft to a bolt, then up to the left edge of a bulge (gear) and step back right to clean rock and over the bulge. Now up to the left edge of the large overlap, pull over, then trend right up to the double bolt anchor on Middle Forest. 120 ft 5.5

Descent- Rap down Middle forest, 2 raps with a single 60m (better to have a 70m).

Protection

Draws, small-to-medium cams optional.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Intricate and heady for 5.7. I found it worthwhile to place a cam around left in the Green Mile corner (double runner) to protect the moves to the first bolt. Sep 23, 2018