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Routes in 4. Middle Forist Area

Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berliner) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Mile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hostile Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantle Peace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Forist (Climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shining Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skate-y Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surveyer's Route (The Flake) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: probably Paul Cormier, then cleaned by Brad White & Dave Kelly
Page Views: 127 total, 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 3, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

START - Down and right of Middle Forist, at a slab below THE flake.

This is climb #14 in the pamphlet guide.

P1 - Scramble up the ladder (A-1 ?!) and head for the flake. (A good cam placement at the base, then only thin wired nuts along the "layback" flake. [finger tips at best). At a good horizontal, step right onto the slab. Then up (gear only) past one not-so-solid right-facing flake, and continue on (5.5 PG-13 ?) horizontal flakes and small ledges to the anchor shared with "Berliner". 100-110 ft 5.7 / 5.7+ PG-13.

Top Rope Variation [photo]- Climb the dark rock a few feet left of the layback flake, continue straight above the overlap and horizontal crack (i.e. don't step right). Merge with the regular line about 20-25 ft above the horizontal. 5.9 / 5.9+

Protection

Gear - thin wires for crux section.
Beware placing any cams behind the not-so-solid flake (good gear in crack a couple of inches higher) Bad enough you'll be standing on the flake, you don't want it prying out with cam-action if you blow the move onto the flake.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
The guide gave it a 5.7 and that's how I put it in, but I thought the moves more difficult ("fat fingers"???) You also could go a fair distance if you didn't have a good wired nut in the thin crack. Maybe not "PG-13" but MntPrjct doesn't have a "PG". Aug 3, 2016