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Routes in 4. Middle Forist Area

Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berliner) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Mile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hostile Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantle Peace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Forist (Climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shining Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skate-y Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surveyer's Route (The Flake) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brad White & Dave Kelly
Page Views: 281 total · 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 3, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

START - At the same place as The Flake

This is climb # 15 on the pamphlet guide.

P1 - From the top of the ladder, move up to the base of the overlap. Protect and then step right up and onto the slab. Continue past 2 bolts to a "hand grabbing" horizontal (great gear) and then continue up and slightly left following the occasional gear and bolt to the anchor shared with "The Flake" 110-115ft 5.7  Rap with a 70m rope; with a 60m it may be possible to reach the fern-covered terrace on the right.

Protection

Small, medium and large (#2, gold largest) cams

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7
There's also a 5.7+/ 5.8 way to do the crux. If you think things are harder than 5.7 you may be trying it this way (I did !) Aug 3, 2016
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
Q: Is the route misspelled on purpose (some routes are)? I know the pamphlet has the same spelling. In German (and the Kennedy quote) it's spelled "Ich bin ein Berliner". Aug 3, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7
Yes, and my German friend tells me it actually gets worse. "Berliner" is not someone from Berlin (be in NH or Germany), but rather a sort of German doughnut! Aug 4, 2016
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
There's actually a misconception about the jelly doughnut reference: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ich_b… Aug 4, 2016
Matty B
 
Matty B  
 
I believe auto correct, and lack of editor, got the best of me on that one. It should actually be "Berliner (Ich Bin Ein Berliner). Aug 10, 2016
Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Tom Sawyer   North Conway, NH
  5.7
Very enjoyable 5.7 climb. Seemed easier than P1 of Subtle Like Bob (rated 5.6) which we had climbed earlier in the day. Lovely area to climb - quiet and very good rock quality for the most part.
Caution! One of the rungs of the approach ladder was loose and could use some TLC. Oct 1, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
The remains of the ladder can be viewed in the bushes below the trail. Easy enough either to scramble up and change into climbing shoes while seated on the base of the slab, or to wipe off the climbing shoes once on the rock. Sep 23, 2018

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