Avg: 1.2 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Josh Pollock and Jake Waples, May 2016|
|Page Views:||949 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Josh on Jun 2, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Rappel from the top anchor (bolts) in one long rap to a small tree low on the arete of the second triangle below (the Front Triangle). From there, rap another 65 or so feet to the rubble at the base of the lowest triangle.
The lower pitches are straightforward: stay on the low-angle arete, using abundant gear placements and giant holds. There is truly an epic amount of lichen down there - the rock is almost invisible under it sometimes - but at least the rock itself is generally not loose. Don't venture onto the west face - it will quickly become 3rd class but is also covered in rock debris. The lower pitches can be done as two separate pitches of 80-100 feet each or as one long lead. The climbing never exceeds 5.4 but has a few interesting spots, such as the short V-slots, one per pitch.
At the base of the upper pitch, you will be at the far right end of the sloping ledge at the base of the Third and Second Triangles. Joy of My World will be just to your left. Build a gear anchor here in the crack at the base of the overhang.
The overhang is protected with a bolt, which can be safely clipped from a solid stance below. The moves over the lip are fun and may involve a big pinch or a big flat hand slap.... Once on the arete above, protection is abundant. Stay as close to the arete edge as possible for maximum exposure and enjoyment, but the climbing here eases off to no more than 5.4. You get a fun position for the last few feet.
It would also be possible to bypass the overhang on the right side, but the rock is loose and protection is sparse until you are back on the arete itself (this would knock the pitch down to about 5.5 R). Besides, you'd be missing the most interesting part of the pitch....