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Routes in A. First Triangle

For Whom the Cap Fits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Little Bats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Josh Pollock, Adam Huxley, and Chuck Fitch, September 30, 2016
Page Views: 456 total, 33/month
Shared By: Josh on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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5 Opinions

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Description

This is another enjoyable face route that takes the left side of the First Triangle formation. Steep moves past bolts one and two lead to a ledge and a rest before the final face. The crux is moving past the final bolt and standing up to reach the anchors on thin, balancy holds -- it requires some thinking and a bit of hope-that-smear-sticks moxy. The route trends slightly right to the anchors, so when you lower off, you'll have a good chance to toprope the alternate roof starts down low.

Location

It is on the left side of the First Triangle. The route starts around a bulge and uphill from the base of Three Little Bats, the righthand route.

Protection

6 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
Glad you liked it, Jay. I concede that you're right, by the way - most of the Upper Tiers routes do need some brushing. I keep hoping that the routes will clean up naturally with traffic, but the Upper Tiers don't get enough visitation yet, and the lichen growth is heftier up there than on some of the Lower Tier routes. I also generally like to minimize the amount of cleaning so as to only remove the natural surface cover and vegetation where absolutely necessary, but I'm sure everyone's experience of these climbs would be better if they were a little cleaner. On this one, the easier middle section is lichenous, but the cruxier parts were naturally a bit cleaner. At any rate, I too will promise to remember a brush when I go back in. Cheers. Oct 9, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
This is a fun little route. The crux is certainly above the last bolt at the top. It takes a lot of thinking to do it correctly. It is also a bit difficult above the second bolt. Josh knows I always say this, but this route could use some brushing of holds. I don't know why I always forget a wire brush when I think this of most of the routes on the upper Tier. Oct 9, 2016