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Colorado
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> Lookout Mtn Rd
> Tiers of Zion
> B. Upper Tier
> B. First, Second, & T…
Bloody Lady Di
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1.2 from 12
votes
Routes in B. First, Second, and Third Triangles
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A Pretty Gneiss Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Allrete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Lady Di T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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For Whom the Cap Fits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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If Your Well Runs Dry S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Joy of My World (is in Zion), The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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King of Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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So Happy Inside, All of the Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Little Bats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Little Roofs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Undisclosed Location S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Doug Redosh, LP |
| Page Views: | 1,070 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a line to the left of Joy of My World that, at least for the first half, begs to be climbed. It still needs further cleaning and trimming (it was trimmed with a light touch), which was abbreviated by a careless sweep of a small ledge near the top which...drew blood.
A trad anchor is strongly recommended if you lead this. There's a thread out right around a chockstone.
To start, you can get a small cam low. Then, it's ~15' up to the next placement. Stem upwards. The crux is probably 1/4 the way up where height may allow you to get a finger jam to get your foot into a cool pocket. Midway up the pitch, you'll likely fight a few bushes (unless I get back there to trim) where the difficulty eases but the pro gets lean. Be cautious not to tug on an obviously unattached block in the gully. Move right into a finger crack/flake. Do a nice foot cross through. Beware of glass shards here. Gain the bolted anchor for Joy of My World.
From the anchor, you can move right and gain the exposed 3rd class above the Triangle or rappel.
A trad anchor is strongly recommended if you lead this. There's a thread out right around a chockstone.
To start, you can get a small cam low. Then, it's ~15' up to the next placement. Stem upwards. The crux is probably 1/4 the way up where height may allow you to get a finger jam to get your foot into a cool pocket. Midway up the pitch, you'll likely fight a few bushes (unless I get back there to trim) where the difficulty eases but the pro gets lean. Be cautious not to tug on an obviously unattached block in the gully. Move right into a finger crack/flake. Do a nice foot cross through. Beware of glass shards here. Gain the bolted anchor for Joy of My World.
From the anchor, you can move right and gain the exposed 3rd class above the Triangle or rappel.
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