Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Doug Redosh, LP
Page Views: 668 total · 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a line to the left of Joy of My World that, at least for the first half, begs to be climbed. It still needs further cleaning and trimming (it was trimmed with a light touch), which was abbreviated by a careless sweep of a small ledge near the top which...drew blood.

A trad anchor is strongly recommended if you lead this. There's a thread out right around a chockstone.

To start, you can get a small cam low. Then, it's ~15' up to the next placement. Stem upwards. The crux is probably 1/4 the way up where height may allow you to get a finger jam to get your foot into a cool pocket. Midway up the pitch, you'll likely fight a few bushes (unless I get back there to trim) where the difficulty eases but the pro gets lean. Be cautious not to tug on an obviously unattached block in the gully. Move right into a finger crack/flake. Do a nice foot cross through. Beware of glass shards here. Gain the bolted anchor for Joy of My World.

From the anchor, you can move right and gain the exposed 3rd class above the Triangle or rappel.

Location

This is in the dihedral to the left of Joy of My World.

Protection

A rack to a #3 Camalot will work.

Photos