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Colorado
> Golden
> Lookout Mtn Rd
> Tiers of Zion
> B. Upper Tier
> B. First, Second, & T…
I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.5 from 31
votes
Routes in B. First, Second, and Third Triangles
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A Pretty Gneiss Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Allrete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Lady Di T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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For Whom the Cap Fits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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If Your Well Runs Dry S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Joy of My World (is in Zion), The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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King of Zion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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So Happy Inside, All of the Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Little Bats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Little Roofs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Undisclosed Location S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Josh, 10/2019 |
| Page Views: | 893 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Josh on Oct 5, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Now you don't have to wait in vain for one of the other routes here to open up - you can play on this short warm up instead. Ascend the north face of the prominent block at the base of the First Triangle (i.e. the protruding section of rock between For Whom the Cap Fits and Three Little Bats).
There are several variations possible on this line, and the 5.8+ rating is only if the easiest is taken. To do this, face climb past the first three bolts, and then reach left to use the left edge of the face to move up under the final overhang. This overhang is most easily passed on its left side, but you do not need to move all the way onto the lichenous east face. Turning the overhang from the right side or head on is at least a number grade harder.
It is easy to toprope the variations once you have set the rope, and ascending the lower face directly up the middle from the third bolt to the overhang would also make things harder.
It is also possible to set a toprope by scrambling up to the top of the block on its east side (and scooting past a tiny tree out to the end of the little top area).
There are several variations possible on this line, and the 5.8+ rating is only if the easiest is taken. To do this, face climb past the first three bolts, and then reach left to use the left edge of the face to move up under the final overhang. This overhang is most easily passed on its left side, but you do not need to move all the way onto the lichenous east face. Turning the overhang from the right side or head on is at least a number grade harder.
It is easy to toprope the variations once you have set the rope, and ascending the lower face directly up the middle from the third bolt to the overhang would also make things harder.
It is also possible to set a toprope by scrambling up to the top of the block on its east side (and scooting past a tiny tree out to the end of the little top area).
Location
This is on the First Triangle, on the protruding block that separates For Whom the Cap Fits from Three Little Bats. The Upper Tier's access trail pretty much arrives right at the bottom of this one, or just to the right of it.
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