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Routes in A. First Triangle

For Whom the Cap Fits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Little Bats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Josh Pollock and Preston Evans, April 2015
Page Views: 1,254 total · 31/month
Shared By: Josh on May 23, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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This is a long route with very good face climbing up to and after the slanting roof. There is a traversing crux move (maybe the hardest on the route?) just below the roof and a reach to the jugs above the roof that is sometimes difficult to suss out. The upper face stays steep and offers a 5.9 spot or two of its own.

A longer draw is recommended for the bolt just before the roof (the last one on the face below) to minimize rope drag, but there may still be some on the upper face. A 60 meter rope might just make it to the ground, but you better knot your ends just in case. Note that the top anchors are a body length below the lip, so if you are rigging the climb from above, you will need to anchor off a juniper tree (long slings) to climb down to the bolt anchors.


It is on the right side of the First Triangle. The new approach trail from below deposits you at the start of this climb. If you approach from the main rappel gully, this is the line immediately to your left when you arrive on the ground.


12 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. Some leaders may want to bring a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack just after you have turned the roof.


Golden, CO
Josh   Golden, CO
Some leaders may want to bring a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack just after you have turned the roof. There is another bolt coming in a move or two, and those moves are easy, but a fall would most likely put you back below the roof. On the other hand, a fall off a cam above the roof might put you right into the lip - ouch. May 24, 2015
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
This is a nice climb, but certainly not a 5.11 in my opinion. I led it onsight with relative ease, and I'm not a 5.11 climber. It felt no harder than Undisclosed Location to me, and despite all the lichen that will clean up and make it easier, it's already quite a bit easier than the 5.10s at Tiers of Zion. So, enjoy it as a nice 5.9, and don't let the 5.11 rating scare you off (the approach to the Upper Tier may legitimately discourage you, however). Kudos to Josh and other developers. Aug 2, 2015
Golden, CO
Josh   Golden, CO
Agreed, Dave-- the posted grade has now been adjusted appropriately. Fortunately, after more people have had a chance to try the route (and after I have had a chance to repeat it), a few different ways to deal with the roof sequence have been discovered, and several of them are more straightforward than whatever we were doing on the FA. Cheers. Aug 4, 2015
Maria Fullenkamp
Denver, CO
Maria Fullenkamp   Denver, CO
Wow - what a fun climb! The roof move is truly 5.9 and pretty unique in that most roof pulls are 10+ or higher and do not have jugs. The balancy traverse move is fun too. A little vegetated/dirty, like the other climbs at this crag, but I still highly recommend it! May 15, 2016

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