Elevation: 6,928 ft
GPS: 39.744, -105.242 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,537 total · 96/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is a consolidation of 3 subareas based upon a MP.com user's suggestion. These three triangles can be considered one subarea.

The First Triangle is the furthest left in the Upper Tier formation and forms the west edge of the talus gully. A large growth of extra rock with a small juniper on top divides the bottom of the First Triangle into a left and right side, and the the two main routes here start from either side of the growth. The main rappel gully is between the First and Second Triangles.

Steep and generally clean, the Second Triangle is at the heart of the Upper Tier formation. There is a 3rd Class ramp at its base (above the Front Triangle), which can be used to access the start of the climbs (you can also access the bottom of the Third Triangle from this ramp).

The Third Triangle is separated from the Second Triangle by a right-facing corner/chimney (Bloody Lady Di). Its summit is higher than the Second Triangle, and it is possible to scramble from above to the top anchors of The Joy of My World (is in Zion) and Allrete via an exposed sneak from the top of the Mt. Zion ridge.

There is a two-bolt anchor on the underside of the large block sitting at the left toe of the Third Triangle (directly below the Bloody Lady Di(hedral)). This will protect belayers for Bloody Lady Di or Joy of My World from a fall down the Front Triangle.

Eds. Due to a reorganization and satellite mapping requirements, the GPS is NOT accurate now. 

Getting There

Access from below using the new main access trail (nearly completed as of 9/2018), which arrives basically right at the gully dividing the First and Second Triangles.

Access from above by using the rappel station between the First and Second Triangles (described on the Upper Tiers page). This will put you at the left side of the Second Triangle, between Three Little Bats (on the right side of the First Triangle) and Undisclosed Location.

Access the bottom of the Third Triangle by scrambling up the ramp below the Second and Third Triangles (which is also the top edge of the Front Triangle). There are a few very exposed 4th Class moves going this way, but they are short.

Another alternative is to rappel diagonally in from one of the routes on the Second Triangle.

L->R:

A. First Triangle
- For Whom the Cap Fits, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.
- Three Little Bats, 5.9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Second Triangle
- A Pretty Gneiss Route, 8, 1p, TR.
- Undisclosed Location, 5.9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
- Three Little Roofs, 5.8, 1p, 65', bolts.
- If Your Well Run Dry, 5.8-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Third Triangle
- Bloody Lady Di, 8 PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
- The Joy of My World (is in Zion), 5.9+, 1p, 75', bolts.
- Allrete, 5.8, 2-3p, 280'. gear, one bolt.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First, Second, and Third Triangles

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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