Upper Tier Rock Climbing
|Shared By:||Josh on Mar 26, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA playground for the 5.9 leader.
The Upper Tier is a series of slabs that roughly divide into four triangular faces with one more beneath. They are numbered from left to right. While the current access to the Upper Tier is a bit less straightforward than the Lower Tier, the routes here are generally clean and of good quality-- many are at least as worthy as the ones on the Lower Tier. By the end of 2017, there should also be a new access trail from below, which will greatly facilitate access to this worthwhile crag.
The Upper Tier is a bit less friendly to large parties hanging out at the base than the Lower Tier, as there are fewer trees, more scree, and less level ground, but there is still comfortable space below Three Little Bats, the main rappel gully, and Undisclosed Location, and some parties of 6 have been able to enjoy the area safely enough. The further to the right one goes, the higher up a ramp/ledge one must scramble, with the Front Triangle below you. The exposure is significant even if the terrain is not hard, so be careful when accessing the bottom of the Third Triangle.
B. Upper Tier (Left to Right):
A. First Triangle
- For Whom the Cap Fits, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.
- Three Little Bats, 5.9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Second Triangle
- A Pretty Gneiss Route, 8, 1p, TR.
- Undisclosed Location, 5.9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
- Three Little Roofs, 5.8, 1p, 65', bolts.
- If Your Well Run Dry, 5.8-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Third Triangle
- Bloody Lady Di, 8 PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
- The Joy of My World (is in Zion), 5.9+, 1p, 75', bolts.
- Allrete, 5.8, 2-3p, 280'. gear, one bolt.
D. Fourth Triangle
- Takin' it Easy, Takin' it Slow, 5.6 or 5.7+, 1p, 65', bolts.
- Best Hamster Ever, 5.4, 1-2p, 220', gear.
- Poofie, 4th Cl, 1p, 65', solo.
E. Front Triangle
- Reggaeton, 5.9, 1p, 50', bolts.
- Kinky Reggae, 5.9, 1p, 50', bolts.
- Get Up, Stand Up, 5.8, 1p, 60', bolts.
Getting ThereFor now, the Upper Tier is best approached from above. Use one of the upper trail approaches to reach a point above the summit of the Third Triangle. From there, descend 50 feet to the sandy clearing behind the summit of the Third (look for, unfortunately, a black graffiti of a mushroom on the rock in front of you). To reach the main rappel station, turn right (east) and go around to the front side on a small grassy ledge. The rappel is approximately 90 feet.
In 2017, a new access trail from below is under construction-- stay tuned for an update and check here for information about how to volunteer to help build the new trail.
While the Upper Tier can currently be approached from below (using the lower approach trail to arrive at the base of the Lower Tier and then walking past its left end and into the talus gully), it is long, steep, and loose. Furthermore, anything you knock loose will threaten the lower approach trail below, so please be careful. This lower approach goes past two broken ribs of rock that protrude from the talus on hikers left (each of which make for short, loose 4th class scrambles if you decide to try them). The Fourth Triangle is not safe to approach from below at all.
Classic Climbing Routes at B. Upper Tier
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season