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Routes in C. Third Triangle

Allrete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bloody Lady Di T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joy of My World (is in Zion), The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Josh Pollock, Steve Grigel, and Adam Huxley, October 2014
Page Views: 857 total · 25/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun slab/face with a prominent overhang at 1/3 height. Ironically, the crux is getting up into the underclings BELOW the overhang after the second bolt. From there, the roof moves are steep and juggy and good fun. The difficulties progressively ease off above.

Location

Find the bolt line in the middle of the Third Triangle.

To access this from above, scramble past the overhanging summit cap of the Third Triangle on its west side, and make an exposed sneak around to the front side. There is a rappel anchor just out of sight that you can clip before making the exposed step around to the ledge on the front side. The anchor for the climb is at the lip of the ledge.

Protection

8 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. There is a 2-bolt anchor for the belayer at the base of the route, on the underside of the large block to the left.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9+
Good route; thx Josh. Both pairs of anchors at the top are good. I give it a 5.9L, for lichen which is still abundant and adds significant difficulty seeing and using footholds. I'll take a brush next time, and it should be a solid 5.9 when it cleans up. Aug 8, 2016
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
UPDATE: the anchor for this climb is now restored. It has been moved to the lip of the ledge on top and should be easier to use than the original. There is a separate rappel anchor above the ledge that can be clipped from the side before making the exposed step onto the ledge, if you are accessing this spot from above.

I do not know who stole the original anchor off this route, but it is concerning. There were several other anchors on the Upper Tier that had pieces of chain and quicklinks removed around the same time (but fortunately no others where the bolts themselves were taken). If there is someone out there with concerns about the fixed hardware at the Upper Tier or any other reason for having messed with the anchors here, please speak up so the community can address your issues, but don't leave an unsafe situation for another climber. PM me if you want.

I'm sorry you ran into a potentially unsafe surprise, Ethan and Justin. Things should be restored now. Apr 27, 2016
Justin Peacock
Denver/Los Angeles
Justin Peacock   Denver/Los Angeles
+1. There are no anchors! We were going to climb this route out to finish our day and were surprised to find no anchors. Shenanigans ensued to deal with the situation. Would it not be prudent to put a hang tag on the first bolt with a heads up? Not everyone reads the description on this site with a fine tooth comb to notice the "currently removed" detail. We just saw the line and thought it looked fun. No anchors creates kind of a dangerous and tricky situation to be surprised with. In 20 years of climbing, this is the first time I've climbed a bolted sport climb only to find nothing at the top.

It seems anchor bolts could be put right on top of the slab rather than the rock above (don't do the final mantel to the top flat area).

As for the route, it's fun. The crux felt harder than 9+ for me and my partner who are both short. A taller person could reach the crack under the roof from a stance with decent feet. We both had to pull a couple of tough slab moves on horrible smears and crimps to gun for the roof. I'd say 2 solid moves of 10+. Or maybe I just need to extend my reach.... Apr 27, 2016
Ethan Little
Longmont, CO
Ethan Little   Longmont, CO
As of 4/22/16, there isn't a 2 bolt anchor at the top of Joy of My World. Looks like they've been removed, maybe due to concerns about the structural integrity of the block they were in? Apr 23, 2016
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
No glass shards as of 4 days ago, but my partner was cleaning the corner to the L and got a shard in his finger.
Fun climb, with a pumpy crux. Harder than Undisclosed Location. Aug 11, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
In the spring of 2015, the upper half of this route had sustained beer bottles thrown from the summit of Mt. Zion, so some of the holds had shards of glass resting on them. This is an unfortunate hazard of being just below the high point of the trail above. Hopefully the recent heavy rains have taken care of some of this issue. The other routes on the Upper Tier are less likely to receive the same bombardment.... May 20, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
This is a fun route, and I agree that the crux is above the second bolt. When you reach the undercling, the feet have no good holds to move up on. It is just smears. Above, the holds are jugs. If anyone ever has a brush, there is lots of flakey, loose lichen on the climb. This route is worthwhile! May 3, 2015