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Routes in South Nuttall

Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperately Seeking Susan T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Inchworm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Luv Nuthing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Unnamed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brian McCray
Page Views: 714 total · 24/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Mar 23, 2016
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

I'm just going to go ahead and say it– this is the best hard splitter at the NRG, and is defined by consistent 5.12 crack climbing, with maybe three v5-6-ish cruxes involving face holds thrown in to keep it challenging. Despite the guidebook's playing up the climb name, this is not an "insane" or unusually crazy/reckless climb. Just super good.

Start well to the left of the splitter, and climb maybe 35 feet of 5.9 slabby climbing to get to the base of the splitter. It's unprotected, but if you're on a hard climb like this you should not be falling on 5.9, right? This is the only runout section of the route.

At the base of the splitter you've got a lot of options for gear, before you bust into a 20-foot sequence that is the hardest section of the climb. From here, get a good kneebar/tree-wrap rest, before busting into a LOT more 5.12+ climbing involving underclings, pinches, and lots of great fingerlocks.

Location

Just left of Munson Burner, five minutes upstream of the waterpipe cave, and maybe 20 minutes downstream of the walk-out.

Protection

Two anchor bolts. Lots of finger pieces, stoppers, offsets, and maybe a few hand size pieces.

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