All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > S Nuttall

Temporary Insanity

Name: Temporary Insanity
Rating: 4.0

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British PG13

Routes in South Nuttall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bone Sugar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Broken Vowels T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Corn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cranial Rectalasia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Desperately Seeking Susan T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Five Ten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Get Shorty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Headless Mouse Memorial T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Hyperactive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Inchworm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kitty Has Claws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Luv Nuthing T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	McCray's Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Reckoning, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stoat's Aren't Dangerous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stoatastic Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stress Intolerance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
	Timber T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tornado Left S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	WW Bolted Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	38.0416, -81.0376
FA:	Brian McCray 1997
Page Views:	3,545 total · 29/month
Shared By:	Pnelson on Mar 23, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

I'm just going to go ahead and say it– this is the best hard splitter at the NRG, and is defined by consistent 5.12 crack climbing, with maybe three v5-6-ish cruxes involving face holds thrown in to keep it challenging. Despite the guidebook's playing up the climb name, this is not an "insane" or unusually crazy/reckless climb. Just super good.

Start well to the left of the splitter, and climb maybe 35 feet of 5.9 slabby climbing to get to the base of the splitter. It's unprotected, but if you're on a hard climb like this you should not be falling on 5.9, right? This is the only runout section of the route.

At the base of the splitter you've got a lot of options for gear, before you bust into a 20-foot sequence that is the hardest section of the climb. From here, get a good kneebar/tree-wrap rest, before busting into a LOT more 5.12+ climbing involving underclings, pinches, and lots of great fingerlocks.