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Temporary Insanity

5.13- PG13, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Brian McCray
W Virginia > New River Gorge > New River Gorge… > S Nuttall
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

I'm just going to go ahead and say it– this is the best hard splitter at the NRG, and is defined by consistent 5.12 crack climbing, with maybe three v5-6-ish cruxes involving face holds thrown in to keep it challenging. Despite the guidebook's playing up the climb name, this is not an "insane" or unusually crazy/reckless climb. Just super good.

Start well to the left of the splitter, and climb maybe 35 feet of 5.9 slabby climbing to get to the base of the splitter. It's unprotected, but if you're on a hard climb like this you should not be falling on 5.9, right? This is the only runout section of the route.

At the base of the splitter you've got a lot of options for gear, before you bust into a 20-foot sequence that is the hardest section of the climb. From here, get a good kneebar/tree-wrap rest, before busting into a LOT more 5.12+ climbing involving underclings, pinches, and lots of great fingerlocks.

Location

Just left of Munson Burner, five minutes upstream of the waterpipe cave, and maybe 20 minutes downstream of the walk-out.

Protection

Two anchor bolts. Lots of finger pieces, stoppers, offsets, and maybe a few hand size pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The upper bit of climbing on Temporary Insanity (5.13) at South Nuttal in the New River Gorge, WV. This climb alone is worth a visit to WV...from pretty much anywhere in the world. So good! Photo: Pat Goodman
[Hide Photo] The upper bit of climbing on Temporary Insanity (5.13) at South Nuttal in the New River Gorge, WV. This climb alone is worth a visit to WV...from pretty much anywhere in the world. So good! Photo:…