Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brian McCray
Page Views: 946 total · 10/month
Shared By: camhead on Jun 12, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

Start on a short wide corner up to a spider-web filled alcove. This first section has some loose rock. From the alcove, go out a couple little roofs, into the imposing overhanging splitter. Overhanging hands, thin hands, and ringlocks gradually get more vertical, but the climbing stays pretty hard and the crack gets thinner. Be aware that toproping this route can be a major cluster, due to its steep and right-leaning nature. This is arguably the best pure jamming route of any grade at the NRG.

Location

Pretty far down the line of the South Nuttall cliffline. Walk past the concentrated area of Temporary Insanity, Fingercrack in White Corner, etc., go under the Waterpipe Cave, and Luv Nothing will be at the top of a small little hill just right of a big corner system. About three minutes past this is a 5.2 climb-out; one of South Nuttall's rare access points.

Protection

wide pieces and more slings than you think for the bottom. For the splitter, 2 or 3 of everything from a gold down to purple camalot, plus a couple thinner pieces for the top. Bolted anchors.

Photos

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