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Routes in South Nuttall

Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Luv Nuthing T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Unnamed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brian McCray
Page Views: 759 total · 9/month
Shared By: camhead on Jun 12, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start on a short wide corner up to a spider-web filled alcove. This first section has some loose rock. From the alcove, go out a couple little roofs, into the imposing overhanging splitter. Overhanging hands, thin hands, and ringlocks gradually get more vertical, but the climbing stays pretty hard and the crack gets thinner. Be aware that toproping this route can be a major cluster, due to its steep and right-leaning nature. This is arguably the best pure jamming route of any grade at the NRG.

Location

Pretty far down the line of the South Nuttall cliffline. Walk past the concentrated area of Temporary Insanity, Fingercrack in White Corner, etc., go under the Waterpipe Cave, and Luv Nothing will be at the top of a small little hill just right of a big corner system. About three minutes past this is a 5.2 climb-out; one of South Nuttall's rare access points.

Protection

wide pieces and more slings than you think for the bottom. For the splitter, 2 or 3 of everything from a gold down to purple camalot, plus a couple thinner pieces for the top. Bolted anchors.

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