Finger Crack in White Corner
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,208 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Darren S on Jul 31, 2007 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route is absolutely sick. I would most definitely say that this route is worth the trip to South Nuttall all by itself. Made the trip out to this thing about three times to get it done. Took a huge whip going for it, but this route takes good gear the whole way.
The route starts in an obtuse corner with an intimidating, yet not too bad roof pull at its end. Gear is a bit spaced through here, but what you get is good. Pull into the killer finger crack section and work in a few pieces of great pro and then launch up into the killer shallow dihedral. Here a mix of right side in the crack and left side on the face climbing, combined with some killer stemming leads to the top of the corner. Step right on to a small ledge where you can catch your breath from the increasingly challenging climbing you just completed. Finish by more killer stemming and crack climbing up to the two bolts below the large roof.
This route is quite sustained, so rack up...the pump clock is ticking.
The route starts in an obtuse corner with an intimidating, yet not too bad roof pull at its end. Gear is a bit spaced through here, but what you get is good. Pull into the killer finger crack section and work in a few pieces of great pro and then launch up into the killer shallow dihedral. Here a mix of right side in the crack and left side on the face climbing, combined with some killer stemming leads to the top of the corner. Step right on to a small ledge where you can catch your breath from the increasingly challenging climbing you just completed. Finish by more killer stemming and crack climbing up to the two bolts below the large roof.
This route is quite sustained, so rack up...the pump clock is ticking.
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