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Routes in South Nuttall

Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperately Seeking Susan T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Inchworm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Luv Nuthing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Unnamed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Pete Absolon, Bob Burgher 1986 FFA Eric Horst, Rick Thompson 1987
Page Views: 1,318 total · 15/month
Shared By: camhead on Sep 20, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

The guidebook says of this line, "Seriously, it's an 80 foot fingercrack!" Although there is a bit of a chimney section, the description pretty much sums it up (and I think there's some sort of finger crack in the back of the chimney, so...).

The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests. I thought that there were two distinct cruxes.

Location

about 10 minute walk downstream from the Beckoning, and about 3 minute walk upstream from Fingercrack in White Corner.

Protection

hands down to 0 TCU. emphasis on blue and yellow tcu size. There are bolted anchors about 8 feet shy of the top.

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