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Routes in South Nuttall
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Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bone Sugar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Broken Vowels T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cranial Rectalasia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Desperately Seeking Susan T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Five Ten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Get Shorty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Headless Mouse Memorial T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hyperactive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inchworm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kitty Has Claws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Luv Nuthing T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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McCray's Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Reckoning, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stoat's Aren't Dangerous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stoatastic Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stress Intolerance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Timber T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tornado Left S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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WW Bolted Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0416, -81.0376 |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson 1994 |
| Page Views: | 872 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Pnelson on Mar 23, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is a really good climb that roughly follows a fingercrack/seam feature before busting right up some cool flakes for the top 30 feet. The difficult crux is protected by a bolt, but there is plenty of solid 5.11 climbing before and after the crux as well. There is a bit more rotten rock on this climb than many of South Nuttal's other cracks, and gear can be difficult to place. Brassies and ballnuts are useful.
This was originally led boltless by Mark Stevenson; Bryan McCray accidentally added the two bolts a bit later. You'll probably be glad for the bolts, though.
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