Elevation: 1,998 ft
GPS: 38.042, -81.038 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,384 total · 79/month
Shared By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This is one of the NRG area's more remote crags. It can be complicated to get to, and has a lack of easy warmups, but once you get this place's logistics dialed, you'll be rewarded with ample summer shade, numerous 5.12 cracks, first ascent potential, and solitude. Be aware that many of the easier routes (under 5.12) lack top anchors. Some of the sport climbs may not have the best bolts either; this place has not yet seen much rebolting and many routes were put up 20 years ago.

Getting There

This is a big crag with numerous approaches, none of them very straightforward. Most NRG climbers have gotten lost their first time coming out here, and it is a good idea to plan for at least two hours of hiking and bushwhacking your first time out here.

The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach from the Arrowhead Trails. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.

It's best to get a tour from a local for this place; ask at Waterstone for details.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Nuttall

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camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
really cool area with way more than its share of 5.12 cracks. I don't want to give too much away about it, since the guidebook gives a pretty good description, but some beta: some of the trails to the crag are easy to lose. Wear long pants, even in the summer; they may as well call the place "South Nettle." If you can find the rap-in point, do it. It's much easier to navigate this place above the cliff, though it may take a couple trips to get the geography dialed. Jun 12, 2011
Lee Kennedy
Raleigh, NC
Lee Kennedy   Raleigh, NC
ACCESS UPDATE: The Elverton Road access point is no longer usable. The land was purchased about a year ago and the new owner does not want people parking/hiking on it. You'll have to use Arrowhead. Sep 17, 2017