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South Nuttall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South Nuttall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bone Sugar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Broken Vowels T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Corn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cranial Rectalasia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Desperately Seeking Susan T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Five Ten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Get Shorty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Headless Mouse Memorial T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Hyperactive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Inchworm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kitty Has Claws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Luv Nuthing T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	McCray's Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Reckoning, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stoat's Aren't Dangerous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stoatastic Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stress Intolerance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
	Timber T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tornado Left S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	WW Bolted Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	1,998 ft	609 m
GPS:	38.0416, -81.0376 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	29,764 total · 130/month
Shared By:	Darren S on Jul 31, 2007
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Access Issue: CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS! docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1… Details

Description

This is one of the NRG area's more remote crags. It can be complicated to get to, and has a lack of easy warmups, but once you get this place's logistics dialed, you'll be rewarded with ample summer shade, numerous 5.12 cracks, first ascent potential, and solitude. Be aware that many of the easier routes (under 5.12) lack top anchors. Some of the sport climbs may not have the best bolts either; this place has not yet seen much rebolting and many routes were put up 20 years ago.

Getting There

This is a big crag with numerous approaches, none of them very straightforward. Most NRG climbers have gotten lost their first time coming out here, and it is a good idea to plan for at least two hours of hiking and bushwhacking your first time out here.

The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach from the Arrowhead Trails. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Nuttall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● Bone Sugar Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 6 ● Desperately Seeking Susan Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 9 ● Hyperactive Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 5 ● Guillotine Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 5 ● WW Bolted Crack Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Timber Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● Broken Vowels Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 17 ● The Beckoning Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Finger Crack in White Corner Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 5 ● The New Traditionalists Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 7 ● Judgement Night Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 8 ● Temporary Insanity Trad