South Nuttall Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,998 ft |
GPS: |
38.0416, -81.0376 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 28,488 total · 145/month |
Shared By: | Darren S on Jul 31, 2007 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is one of the NRG area's more remote crags. It can be complicated to get to, and has a lack of easy warmups, but once you get this place's logistics dialed, you'll be rewarded with ample summer shade, numerous 5.12 cracks, first ascent potential, and solitude. Be aware that many of the easier routes (under 5.12) lack top anchors. Some of the sport climbs may not have the best bolts either; this place has not yet seen much rebolting and many routes were put up 20 years ago.
Getting There
This is a big crag with numerous approaches, none of them very straightforward. Most NRG climbers have gotten lost their first time coming out here, and it is a good idea to plan for at least two hours of hiking and bushwhacking your first time out here.
The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach from the Arrowhead Trails. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.
It's best to get a tour from a local for this place; ask at Waterstone for details.
The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach from the Arrowhead Trails. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.
It's best to get a tour from a local for this place; ask at Waterstone for details.
Classic Climbing Routes at South Nuttall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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