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Routes in South Nuttall

Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Luv Nuthing T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Unnamed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

This is one of the NRG area's more remote crags. It can be complicated to get to, and has a lack of easy warmups, but once you get this place's logistics dialed, you'll be rewarded with ample summer shade, numerous 5.12 cracks, first ascent potential, and solitude. Be aware that many of the easier routes (under 5.12) lack top anchors. Some of the sport climbs may not have the best bolts either; this place has not yet seen much rebolting and many routes were put up 20 years ago.
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

This is a big crag (about the size of Endless Wall) with numerous approaches, none of them very straightforward. Many NRG climbers have gotten lost their first time coming out here, and it is a good idea to plan for at least two hours of hiking and bushwhacking your first time out here.

The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach as for Domino Point, but take a faint jeep track right into the woods just before the gravel approach road switches back down under the cliffline. There are faint trails this way; follow them with the slope to the cliffline on your left, and after about 20 minutes of walking you'll be on top of South Nuttal's main areas. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.

It's best to get a tour from a local for this place.

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Nuttall

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Lee Kennedy
Raleigh, North Carolina
Lee Kennedy   Raleigh, North Carolina
ACCESS UPDATE: The Elverton Road access point is no longer usable. The land was purchased about a year ago and the new owner does not want people parking/hiking on it. You'll have to use Arrowhead. Sep 17, 2017
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
really cool area with way more than its share of 5.12 cracks. I don't want to give too much away about it, since the guidebook gives a pretty good description, but some beta: some of the trails to the crag are easy to lose. Wear long pants, even in the summer; they may as well call the place "South Nettle." If you can find the rap-in point, do it. It's much easier to navigate this place above the cliff, though it may take a couple trips to get the geography dialed. Jun 12, 2011

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