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Grey Elk's Big Rack
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Early Access
Routes in Upper East Face
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Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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DH1? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old and Undocumented, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Post Quarter-Life Crisis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slunky Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.00244, -105.38754 |
| FA: | D. Hare? |
| Page Views: | 1,228 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 19, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob reopened from raptor nesting 4/21/26
Details
The USFS closed Blob Rock & East Blob for raptor nesting through 7/31/26.
3/14/25: Blob was reopened.
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
This is an interesting climb that goes from great in some spots to poor in others. Each of the cruxes has its own character, but in every case, it would be height-dependent. The assigned grade here is for a male of average height. Each crux would get harder just below that limit and quite hard for someone substantially shorter.
P1 (5.10): start off (presumably, and this is consistent with the info here for 'Blind Trust') on the right line of bolts above the ground on good incuts and jugs though an overhang. The line is less technical than the one to the left ('Blind Trust') but has longer reaches and requires harder-lockoffs. Climb up past 3 bolts to gear opportunity, mostly cams, but also a few nuts.
An anchor will appear to the left, and this can be a belay if you worry about your second, or you can continue perhaps 10 meters more up and right through some choss and then back left to yet another bolted anchor.
Perhaps the best option is to cross over to the left past this anchor into what is likely the top of Blind Trust and climb the upper shallow, right-facing corner of that (5.9) to the second anchor. In any case, link it up to the next pitch to avoid P2 being a 30' pitch.
P2 (5.11a): from the second anchor, look up into a tiny (shallow), left-facing corner with 2 bolts and climb up into that. Clip up from a good stance and do the crux with a long reach right to a reasonable hold. Step up into balancy territory, and get established before placing more gear, a medium stopper, if memory serves me well.
Continue up and right onto a ramp at 5.9 or so. You can continue up and left to the top at 5.9 trad to merge with the 'Young and the Rackless' passing a 4" placement or two along the way, but the route proper bends sharply to the right to another bolted belay.
Belay here or continue on the next pitch.
P3 (5.11a): continue up to the left most of the 2 bolts and put a 2' runner on it, then put a draw on the second runner. Climb left past these and slightly further left still (long reach again, and insecure as you pull up) continuing slightly left to some good holds and gear before coming back to the right. Move right to an obvious ramp and then up past the left side of a small tree and on to the rap anchors of 'Young and the Rackless.'
A 70m rope will get you down to the belay above the "2nd" (listed here as first) pitch, and then to the ground. A 60m will require you to stop at the first anchor down, before the second 5.11a pitch, then again a belay or two down from there, necessitating 3 raps in all.
Location
Just to the left of the obvious line, Nighthawk, Grey Elk starts on one of two short bolted lines, presumably the right of these after sorting through the somewhat conflicting data in the D'Antonio book (are we to believe the text or topo?) and the Rolofson book (which does not include both lines, and is therefore not 100% clear).
A line of cracks goes up above from there and into 2 more mixed pitches.
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