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Early Access
Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak
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66 Years of Fun WI3 M5 |
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Blind Assumption T WI5 M5 |
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Blind Luck T WI4 M6- |
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Bottomless Dogleg WI3 M2 |
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Furloughed T AI4 M6 Easy Snow R |
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Guide's Couloir AI2 M2-3 Steep Snow |
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Ole 6, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6-7 |
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Three Dragons T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c M7 |
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Toga Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- |
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Total Abandon T WI4+ M4+ |
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Y Couloir Steep Snow |
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Zeb's Big Butt Couloir M1 Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.8406, -105.044 |
| FA: | Erik Wellborn, Phil Wortmann, September 2012 |
| Page Views: | 3,794 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | phil wortmann on Oct 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Toga is a great intro to Pikes Peak Mixed action. During the FA, we had a great pitch of ice to start it. However, the first pitch can be mossy and chossy when iceless, but the last 3 are splitter AF.
P1 - 100 feet. This is WI3-4 or M3ish depending on conditions. Start at the base of the gully that leads to the prominent, right-facing corner system of The Ole 6. Belay at the big ledge beneath an offwidth flake.
P2 - 80 feet. Climb the offwidth flake, then bust right ten feet to a splitter up the face to a nice belay stance, 5.6. The money pitch!
P3 - 100 feet. Continue straight up through parallel pick size cracks to a ledge on a block. 5.6/m5-?? Prolly the crux.
P4 - 80 feet. Go straight up enjoyable, somewhat mossy climbing to a mossy topout. Belay straight back 20 feet at a wide corner.
Scramble up 100 feet or so, and cross right over the top of TA to get back to the car.
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