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Routes in Balcony Rock

Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 501 total · 17/month
Shared By: David Carrier on Sep 29, 2015
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

Start on the right-facing ramp/corner about 30 feet right of Thumb Press and 30 feet left of Crown of Thorns. Climb up the ramp/corner to a big ledge about 20 feet up. Continue up following the line of least resistance along blocks, ledges, and corners, until you reach a ledge about 10 feet from the top. Traverse right along this ledge for a few feet and then climb up a crack and through the notch. You will top out a couple feet to the left of the single bolt.

Location

The top of the route is about 2 feet to climber's left of the bolt. You can walk down from the top.

Protection

Anchor to boulders on top using a long static line, and drop your anchor rope over the edge to avoid rope drag. Use the single bolt as a backup and to redirect your rope through the notch a couple feet to climber's left of the bolt. This notch is where you'll top out from the climb.

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