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Routes in Balcony Rock

Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,126 total · 15/month
Shared By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

Layback the crack in the corner, then work your way up rounded ledges, aiming for the large, detached block above. Chimney behind the block a few moves, then aim left up the left-facing overhanging segment to the broad notch at the top, putting you on a large ledge with bushes. A variant start climbs the outside arete of the corner (5.7-ish) to a ramp, after which you maneuver to rejoin the main route. Many other variations exist by climbing pretty much anywhere up the face.

Location

Inside corner system 20' to the right of Cliff Monster.

Protection

On lead this will welcome a full range of gear. Small nut placements are popular, but also room for a hex or #3 & #4 Camalot. One bolt and great one inch crack at top for anchor.

Photos

kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.7
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
  5.7
Fun climbing for the entire 80'. 15' climbers right of the lone rusted bolt at the top is the ideal spot for gear placements for a natural anchor. May 25, 2015
The bolt to the right at the top (above Popeye's) is gone. Feb 9, 2017

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