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Routes in Balcony Rock

Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: David Carrier and Ben LaCour
Page Views: 171 total, 6/month
Shared By: David Carrier on Sep 29, 2015
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

Start at the middle of the rocky bulge, midway between Cliff Monster and Crown of Thorns. Go straight for the top from here, using small ledges and jugs. Don't be tempted to exit left or right on the big diagonal ledges, you'll miss out on all the fun stuff in between. There are good holds right where you need them all the way up. Exit up and right on the final diagonal ledge near the top, and use the blocky arete to get up and over the final crux.

Location

Top and bottom of the route is about 10-15 feet to climber's left of Crown of Thorns.

Protection

Sling the large boulder on top with a long static line, and drop the line over the edge of the ledge below in order to avoid rope drag. You can also use a gear anchor in the nice crack in the wall above the big ledge.

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