Elevation: 113 ft
GPS: 39.325, -77.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,165 total · 166/month
Shared By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst
Access Issue: Frequent Peregrine Falcon Closures about Feb-July on MD Heights,  Mandatory Sign in for Maryland Heights. WV and VA crags are Closed to climbing. Details

Description

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.

Getting There

Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.

Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Balcony Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Crown Of Thorns
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Thumb Press
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Thumb Press Right
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 8
Cliff Monster
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Olive Oyl
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 9
Sweet Pea
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Train Song
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Gold Medallist
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Popeye's
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Brutus
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 10
Bluto's Bluster
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Poopdeck Pappy
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Popeye's Left
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crown Of Thorns
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Thumb Press
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Thumb Press Right
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Cliff Monster
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
Olive Oyl
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Sweet Pea
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Train Song
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Gold Medallist
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Popeye's
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Brutus
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Bluto's Bluster
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Poopdeck Pappy
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Popeye's Left
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
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