Routes in Balcony Rock
|Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|GPS:||39.325, -77.718 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||7,634 total, 110/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012|
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DescriptionJust West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.
Getting ThereBalcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.
Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.
Classic Climbing Routes at Balcony Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season