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Routes in Balcony Rock

Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 113 ft
GPS: 39.325, -77.718 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,634 total, 110/month
Shared By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst
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Description

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.

Getting There

Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.

Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Balcony Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crown Of Thorns
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cliff Monster
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweet Pea
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Train Song
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Medallist
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crown Of Thorns 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Cliff Monster 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
Sweet Pea 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Train Song 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Gold Medallist 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Popeye's 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Balcony Rock »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Hi all, I recently visited Balcony Rock and may be able to offer some advice on parking. I've detailed some close-ish parking in my blog post below, as well as overall crag experience:

cairnsandcarabiners.com/Blo…


I also mention a neat coffee shop in Harper's Ferry at the end that has a bouldering wall inside. Cheers! Jun 8, 2017
David Carrier
White Salmon, WA
David Carrier   White Salmon, WA
Parking update: On Sunday April 9, 2017 the bus turnaround was jammed full with about 10-12 cars parked illegally. A Washington County Officer showed up around 3:00 and issued warnings and $60 parking tickets to everyone parked there. He said the local fire department needs to keep the turnaround lot free for emergency vehicles, and that they call the police department whenever they need to clear the turnaround area. Climbers can park under the Rt. 340 bridge or at the turnout for the Maryland Heights trail and ride a bike to the trailhead. Apr 13, 2017
Lex Rodgers
Martinsburg, WV
Lex Rodgers   Martinsburg, WV
Parking Update: officers are ticketing anyone that parks in the school bus turnaround even on weekends.
New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.

Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river. Mar 25, 2017
Do not park in turnaround even on weekend! I had just parked there on a Sunday and had to move my car so a community bus could turn around. May 3, 2016
doc
doc  
Oops...sorry.never named that. Have free soloed so in the lower range. The Fairway is on the left.sorry bout dat. DOC Jan 13, 2015
doc
doc  
Route pictured I named CamelFlake. Looks like left variation from pic. This place was my second home and sure alot were 1st accents. The rt straight over top of flake is doable use kneebar and pray for long arms! Popeyes revenge is the best power route.if any way I can help anyone else out id be more than happy to. You can catch me at Walter Holliday@ yahoo.com. by the way...need a partner.get tired of bouldering. Hit me up.we'll have a blast. Peace n climb on!!! DOC Jan 13, 2015

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