Connect with Facebook
Routes in Balcony Rock
|
Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Cookie Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Elevation: | 113 ft |
| GPS: |
39.3249, -77.7178 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 27,082 total · 202/month |
| Shared By: | Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst |
Access Issue: 2022 Peregrine Closure Lifted July 29, 2022. Closed to climbing, VA crags, Jefferson rock, and all rocks along Shenandoah Street. Note: All parking is closed along Sandy Hook rd.
Details
2022 Peregrine Closures-Lifter July 29, 2022.
Website: nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/…
After raising the first successful fledgling at Harpers Ferry in 70 years, a pair of peregrine falcons have returned once again to nest on Maryland Heights in Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.
To provide the peregrine falcons adequate space for nesting, the National Park Service (NPS) will close portions of Maryland Heights from Feb. 16 to July 29, 2022. The closures include several rock outcroppings near the overlook and the following climbing areas:
The Gully
Sign Wall
ABC Ramps
Train Tunnel Wall
Confederate Walls
All trails on Maryland Heights and the Union Walls climbing area will remain open. Closed areas will be clearly marked with signs and fencing.
Peregrine falcons are a sensitive species and had not successfully hatched chicks at Maryland Heights in several decades prior to last year’s success. In spring 2021, the peregrine couple produced three hatchlings, but only one chick survived the vulnerable newborn phase and successfully fledged (developed feathers that enabled it to fly). Human interference, especially during the nesting phase, can drive off mature falcons, cause abandonment of the nest and result in the loss of eggs or death to fledglings. NPS staff asks that people respect closures to give the peregrine falcons a safe habitat to breed and nest.
 
For more information about peregrine falcons at the park, visit go.nps.gov/HFfalcons.
________________________
MD Heights Registration
Registration is required prior to climbing on Maryland Heights. To register for climbing on MD Heights visit the Lower Town Information Center (however not required during Covid)
Cliffs that are closed to climbing and bouldering are Jefferson Rock, and the various quarry sites and small rock outcrops along Shenandoah Street. Virginia Rock Climbing is close which is basically the Virginia Cliff.
Parking Restrictions
All Parking is closed on Sandy Hook Rd by the County Department of Highways including the trail head for Maryland Heights.
Website: nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/…
After raising the first successful fledgling at Harpers Ferry in 70 years, a pair of peregrine falcons have returned once again to nest on Maryland Heights in Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.
To provide the peregrine falcons adequate space for nesting, the National Park Service (NPS) will close portions of Maryland Heights from Feb. 16 to July 29, 2022. The closures include several rock outcroppings near the overlook and the following climbing areas:
The Gully
Sign Wall
ABC Ramps
Train Tunnel Wall
Confederate Walls
All trails on Maryland Heights and the Union Walls climbing area will remain open. Closed areas will be clearly marked with signs and fencing.
Peregrine falcons are a sensitive species and had not successfully hatched chicks at Maryland Heights in several decades prior to last year’s success. In spring 2021, the peregrine couple produced three hatchlings, but only one chick survived the vulnerable newborn phase and successfully fledged (developed feathers that enabled it to fly). Human interference, especially during the nesting phase, can drive off mature falcons, cause abandonment of the nest and result in the loss of eggs or death to fledglings. NPS staff asks that people respect closures to give the peregrine falcons a safe habitat to breed and nest.
 
For more information about peregrine falcons at the park, visit go.nps.gov/HFfalcons.
________________________
MD Heights Registration
Registration is required prior to climbing on Maryland Heights. To register for climbing on MD Heights visit the Lower Town Information Center (however not required during Covid)
Cliffs that are closed to climbing and bouldering are Jefferson Rock, and the various quarry sites and small rock outcrops along Shenandoah Street. Virginia Rock Climbing is close which is basically the Virginia Cliff.
Parking Restrictions
All Parking is closed on Sandy Hook Rd by the County Department of Highways including the trail head for Maryland Heights.
Description
Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.
Getting There
Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.
Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.
Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.
Classic Climbing Routes at Balcony Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
|
High
|
Low
|
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within Balcony Rock
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Balcony Rock
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (3)
8 Comments