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Bluto's Bluster
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 15
votes
Routes in Balcony Rock
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Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cookie Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | David Carrier and Ben LaCour |
| Page Views: | 1,460 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | David Carrier on Sep 29, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Description
A difficult finger crack layback and dyno will get you off the ground to the nice face climb above. Start on the same ramp/corner system as Cliff Monster, but instead of going left up the ramp, go directly up the crack to the ledge above. The crux move may be significantly harder now that a trad climber broke this hold by falling on a cam placement. From the ledge, make a bee line for the top on the smooth face, using thin cracks and crimps. It's 5.10+ near the top if you stay on the smooth face to the left of the "Mar..." graffiti, but right of the blocky Cliff Monster route. Top out through the same notch as Cliff Monster.
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