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Routes in Balcony Rock

Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 502 total, 7/month
Shared By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the ramp and reach up right to a small detached block. Getting your feet on nothing, smear over and reach up right again to a decent ledge (or follow the rather thin finger cracks straight up for a couple of moves). From the ledge trend up and left, aiming for the noticeable U-slot in the huge detached flake above. Grunt through the slot and continue up on somewhat thin moves on the face above until you can reach slightly better (if sloping) holds on the right and pull up to another stance. Easy climbing from there gains the top.

Location

Start @ base of ramp just right of Thumb Press and left of the "GLD" graffiti.

Protection

Trees @ Anchor. Incorporating bolt at top could be possible.

Photos

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