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Routes in Balcony Rock

Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: David Carrier, Paul Meehan
Page Views: 140 total · 7/month
Shared By: David Carrier on Apr 2, 2017
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Access Issue: Mandatory Sign in for all outcrops. Closed West Virginia, Maryland Heights, Skink Rock, Stone Fort. Details

Description

Start anywhere to the right of the small tree and stone block at the base of cliff, about 5 feet right of J. Wellington Wimpy. There are at least four variations to the start in the next 20 feet. The leftmost start is about 5.9, and the start gets easier as you go to the right. The rightmost start is about 5.6. Climb straight up to the brushy ledge about 30 feet up. Travel left along the ledge to the base of a blocky face about 15 feet wide. Climb up this face anywhere between the arête to the left and the pine tree to the right. It’s about 60 feet to the top.

Location

Start anywhere to the right of J. Wellington Wimpy. Finish on the large ledge 10' down from the top.

Protection

Toprope anchor on the big block to climber's right of the large ledge 10' below the top, using a very long static line. You can use this same anchor for all routes from Popeye's to Olive Oyl. Be sure your master point hangs over the lip to avoid abrasion and rope drag. Rappel down so you can redirect the rope around the appropriate blocks and notches. You may want to sling the pine tree to redirect the rope and avoid a nasty pendulum fall.

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