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Routes in Der Freischutz

Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Fat Elvis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
HuGGz TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Roth, Glen Charnoski, Jay Droeger
Page Views: 759 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

With the routes Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll right here, it should be no surprise that Fat Elvis was lurking around the corner. The upper half also reminded me of Velvet Elvis, with a rising traverse above an overhang, only easier. Train for this one with a strict regimen of peanut butter, banana, and bacon sandwiches, and try not to die on the toilet until you climb this!

The first half chases 4 bolts up a clean and easy face to a ledge. This is a good place for a rest/nap (if low angle 5.7 is your limit). There is a great optional gear placement here if the next bolt seems scary to clip. Pretty much any big nut, tri-cam, or hex will fit.

Clip a bolt and pull over the roof on the right. Traverse up and left to the rounded and exposed arête, past 3 more bolts. Lower angle rock and jugs lead up and right to an anchor on a slab. The anchor is a little far from the "lip", so there is a bit of friction when lowering. It was placed there to keep the rope away from the tree on the ledge and also allow top roping of other variations to the right. It is also easy to reach this anchor from above in case you want to approach via an East Face Route instead of hiking around.

Location

It is on the West face to the right and below the Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll ledge.

From the saddle between The Hand and Der Freischutz, step down to the West and walk down the gully to the South. Pass around the base of a giant boulder into a small alcove to discover the great staging area.

Protection

8 bolts, 1 big nut (optional), and a 2 bolt anchor.

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, Boulder OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to establish new routes in the Flatirons.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
After the ledge, one can also clip a single bolt then climb directly upwards to than anchors, skipping 3x bolts. You could move left and clip the second one, extend it, then come back right and go straight up as well with a little more peace of mind if that is your thing.

In any case, whilst lead with no gear at the time, it would probably take a few stoppers and certainly a sling or two on a chickenhead.

The route is actually easier than the bolted line to the left, IMO, and might be 5.9 or 5.9-. Not sure, really. Lead O.S. 10/7/17 with Kat A. Oct 7, 2017

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