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Routes in Der Freischutz

Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fat Elvis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Shot T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 109 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted Details

Description

An interesting climb with interesting moves- mostly thin edges and cobbles. A move leftward toward the arete at mid-height seemed to be the crux.
This climb is all about slipping or not slipping, so chalk up and climb it cold. I was in distress chalk-less and in the hot sun. Perhaps my assigned grade reflects that.
The route could be lead all sport (no trad gear) and still only get a grade of 5.11a/5.9(S).

Location

This climb is just up the hill from the Northern Dinosaur Egg, which is to say, it is at the lowest south-facing wall on the West side of Der Freischutz. It is the left of two bolted faces which share a disgustingly 'hot pink' sling on the anchor at the moment.... Thankfully it is out of view from almost anywhere by the summit of the N. Dino Egg, and hopefully the sun will fade it fast. The 80s were not kind to me and this triggered bad memories.

Protection

3 bolts and a few stoppers or TCUs for the easier top.

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