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Routes in Der Freischutz

Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Fat Elvis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
HuGGz TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FKFA: T. Bubb, K Arhendt, Oct. 7, 2017
Page Views: 68 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure Details

Description

The name of this variation is given with a double entendre. As a variation of Fat Elvis, which mentions the circumstances of his death, it seemed fitting. The second was the thoughts on the lead, runout quite a way, and in fragile health (torn rotator cuff, torn labrum, waiting to determine if surgery was required and not using the right arm). It came to mind that while things can look clean and tough, sometimes they are actually fragile, and shatter if dropped. In a way, this had already happened to me. I tore a shoulder catching a frisbee (eye roll).

Climb as for Fat Elvis. Off of the ledge at mid-height, pull up past the first bolt, and then look directly up at what seems to be a direct and obvious line. Climb this directly to the top through a slight bulge up high to reach the anchors from the right side. The holds are mostly secure but a bit lichenous. From the point of divergence, you could opt to move up and left to clip the second bolt with an extended sling then come back down and right before climbing straight up as well with a little more peace of mind if that is your thing, but it is not really necessary.

In any case, whilst lead with no gear at the time, it would probably take a few stoppers and certainly a sling or two on a chickenhead.

The route is actually easier than the bolted line to the left, IMO, and might be 5.9 or 5.9-. I am not sure, really.

Location

This route climbs up directly to the top, nearly on a plumb line from the first bold above the ledge of Fat Elvis.

Protection

All but the last 3 bolts of Fat Elvis. A set of stoppers and a few slings on chickenheads could probably protect the 30' runout up top, but it was done sans gear when we did it.

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