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Routes in Der Freischutz

Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fat Elvis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
HuGGz TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 2,339 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This short but sweet face climb ascends the middle of the textured face on the southwest face of Der Freischutz, following a line of four bolts. The route has a gorgeous backdrop of Bear Canyon, and so one might want to bring a camera for this one! Start at a large hueco below the first bolt. Climb straight up past four bolts on the beatiful face into a right facing corner and over the top to anchors. The crux of the right is located right at the fourth bolt, and consists of balancy moves of hidden sidepulls and edges to gain a small ledge below the final corner. The climbing up to this point is no harder than 5.10, and winds its way upward between a series of solid crimp-sized flakes and edges with plenty of feet. To descend rappel from the anchors (50 feet). This would most definitely receive three stars if it was not so short.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bring four quickdraws and gear for the anchors if one is toproping.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This is one of those weird routes that, although it is vertical, you feel like you pull with your toes. Mar 8, 2002
StanL
Louisville, CO
StanL   Louisville, CO
Two star climb, three star setting. Apr 27, 2003
XOG
XOG  
As of Feb. 13th Drugs has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed. Feb 14, 2005
ac
ac  
Greg:

Can you please give us specifics on the hardware that was placed: Fixe bolts or Powers bolts, what size 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or plated steel, hangers (fixe, metolius, or petzl) etc.???

Thanks,

Rob Palmer Feb 15, 2005
XOG
XOG  
Rob:

I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.

aceeldo.org/~aceeldoo/fhrc/

safeclimbing.org/

- Greg Feb 15, 2005
AC:

The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement. Thanks ASCA!! Bolts are Fixe Triplex Stainless Steel, 75mm (3inch). Hangars are Fixe SS with powdercoat camo. Anchor is Fixe SS rap ring and Fixe Plated Steel Chain Anchor. All the visible gear is camo'd with red Rustoleum.

I didn't get a chance to climb the route, but it looks pretty sweet. The bolt spacing is sporty enough to keep your attention.

I welcome any constructive criticism/comments.

Greg brings up a good point regarding bringing a wrench. If you do, I suggest a ratchet with a 17 mm socket. However, I would strongly advise that you do not tighten the bolts unless the hangar appears to be loose. This is critical, as overtightening could result in a time bomb. The new bolts are Stainless Steel (SS), which is less forgiving than mild steel, in regards to proper "torque". In placing any bolt, I prefer not to err on the side of over "torque-ing".

I would venture to say that, being SS the new gear will last decades longer than the original gear.

Note that Street Hassle, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey have received new gear. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others. Feb 25, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Thin, sharp, tough when too hot (slick) or too cold (can't feel). Jun 11, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Good finger warm-up for Power Bulge. Sep 10, 2007
Davy O  
Someone needs to bring a wrench up to tighten the nut on the first bolt. It was very loose today (about to fall off). I tightened it by hand, but I'm sure it will work its way loose again soon. Sep 11, 2009
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
The nut of the lowest bolt in the anchor is quite loose, which causes the hanger to spin. Hand tightened it as much as I could today, but it didn't do much.... Aug 16, 2014

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