Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,833 total · 9/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Dec 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted Details

Description

To reach the East face route, follow the Mallory Cave trail as it switchbacks between Dinosaur Rock and Der Zerkle. The trail will pass within a few of the East face once you are West of Dinosaur Rock (Der Freischutz is West of Dinosaur Rock).

Start at the base of the East face next to the dihedral formed by blocks on the North side of the Overture and Freischutz. Head up following the line of least resistance on the left of a gully for some 200 feet. Negotiate some large blocks via cracks at the top of the gully and head right for the summit.

Descent - downclimb the Free Shot route or scramble down some 30 feet (5.2 awkward) to the North and East via a V groove.

Protection

Standard rack.
Climbed this route with Colorado Mountain Club (Chris, Naoki, Michele, Joan and myself) in two rope teams and four pitches. It was a wonderful day, warm, no wind, and sunny skies. DIA was clearly visible.

Our line up to summit ranged was mostly 5.0 and class 4 although we did find some 5.3-5.4 crux moves on the later pitches. In many places the rock is frazzled and I had a hold break off in my hand.

The rap down requires some skill as the rock as the desired path, the fall line, and the rocks do not match up well. Down climbing is also possible as described.

Alan C Oct 1, 2006