Type: Sport
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987.
Page Views: 2,345 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on Aug 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted Details

Description

This immaculate slab climb is located on the Frankenstein's Castle formation located in the gully between The Hand and Der Freischutz.

It ascends a shallow, right-facing dihedral up a slab, behind a tree, on the south side of the gully just before reaching the Der Freischutz west face. The crux moves are right off the ground, and so stick clipping the first bolt is advised (a stick can be found near the base, just bring tape).

Begin by moving off of two good crimpers up right to a gaston, match left foot to left hand, reach up left for some small holds, then stand up to gain some good crimpers at the base of the dihedral. From here, the first bolt could be clipped (should already be stick clipped). From here, all the moves are no harder than 5.11. Follow a series of sidepulls and pinches up past a second bolt (careful clipping) and towards a third, keeping your feet below the dihedral. After clipping the third bolt, move up and over the dihedral and a second small overlap on good holds to and fourth bolt and easy climbing to the anchors.

This is a stellar slab climb, well worth the hike, and makes for a good day when climbed with Power Bulge (5.12c) on the south face of The Hand formation, directly across the gully. One is delicate and slabby with the crux right of the ground, the other is steep and sustained with the crux moves at the end!

Protection

Four bolts to coldshut anchors.

Photos