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|FA:||Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987.|
|Page Views:||2,345 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Kristo torgersen on Aug 2, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
It ascends a shallow, right-facing dihedral up a slab, behind a tree, on the south side of the gully just before reaching the Der Freischutz west face. The crux moves are right off the ground, and so stick clipping the first bolt is advised (a stick can be found near the base, just bring tape).
Begin by moving off of two good crimpers up right to a gaston, match left foot to left hand, reach up left for some small holds, then stand up to gain some good crimpers at the base of the dihedral. From here, the first bolt could be clipped (should already be stick clipped). From here, all the moves are no harder than 5.11. Follow a series of sidepulls and pinches up past a second bolt (careful clipping) and towards a third, keeping your feet below the dihedral. After clipping the third bolt, move up and over the dihedral and a second small overlap on good holds to and fourth bolt and easy climbing to the anchors.
This is a stellar slab climb, well worth the hike, and makes for a good day when climbed with Power Bulge (5.12c) on the south face of The Hand formation, directly across the gully. One is delicate and slabby with the crux right of the ground, the other is steep and sustained with the crux moves at the end!