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Routes in Der Freischutz

Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Fat Elvis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
HuGGz TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1988.
Page Views: 1,219 total · 6/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on Jul 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
New Emergency Closure Details

Description

This route is better known as "Sex", thus completeing the trio of "restday favorites". It starts right of the slab below the summit of Der Freischutz and follows 2 bolts into a left-leaning corner to the top. After clipping the first bolt, make 5.9 moves up into the left-facing flake, where a blue Metolius cam can be placed if so desired. Mantel on top of the flake and clip the second bolt. Climb the face up into the crack (10a crux), place a few small wires, and follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Here, a directional wire can be placed in a notch (to protect a second climber) and the leader can down climb right to the anchors. 50 feet. Rappel from anchors.

Protection

Bring a blue Metolius TCU, several quickdraws, and a set of small nuts.

Per Aeon Aki: this route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.

Photos

pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
My gear beta: yellow Mastercam (not blue, but I like 'em tight) after first bolt, then #7HB offset (i.e., a medium-sized nut) and 0.75 Camalot for above 2nd bolt. Braver climbers could probably just clip the 2 bolts and be fine (with an attentive belay), but if you're gonna bring gear, the above seemed good to me. Jan 20, 2014

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