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Routes in Aegir

20th Century Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crankbugs S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Ray Ringle '86
Page Views: 962 total, 29/month
Shared By: Alex Kirkpatrick on Mar 7, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This killer line requires delicate footwork, strong nerves, commitment to impossible looking sequences, and more endurance than you would think: A complex and classic route. This climb starts just left of Doubt on a ledge. Navigate vertical and sparsely bolted terrain for ~60ft and then use wizardry to float up a thin seam as the terrain steepens. You may want to clip off you sorcerers staff at a decent rest, because its on all the way to the chains from here! Big whips possible and likely. Do not expect to clip up bolts on this one.

Note: a 70m rope just reaches the ground from the extension anchors. It is likely you could do just Crankbugs on a 60, but I have not done it.

Location

Just left of Doubt. Begin off same ledge.

Protection

Bolts. Bring several extendable runners

Photos

All hardware replaced in 2014. Extension clocks in around 12+ and is an open project as of Feb 2015. Mar 7, 2015