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Routes in Aegir

20th Century Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crankbugs S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Geir Hundal, Clay Mansfield
Page Views: 1,137 total, 22/month
Shared By: Geir on Sep 22, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is a wild and airy variation linking the EFR classic Reef Break to Reefer Madness. Clay spotted this crazy-looking traverse 200' off the deck and pointed it out to me. We decided to establish a new route that included the traverse as it looked so appealing.

Our first attempt to reach the traverse was via an old EFR project about 30 feet right of Reef Break. It became apparent this route was not going to take us to the start of the traverse, so Eric invited us to establish the traverse as a variation to Reef Break instead.

On the FA we were really psyched to find that the pitch went at a reasonable grade and was as exposed as it looked from the ground. With a bit more cleaning it will be a great variation to Eric's route.

Location

Climb the first two pitches of Reef Break. From here traverse up and right all the way to the last pitch of Reefer Madness (just left of the huge roof). Belay here or continue another 30' right (5.7) to a better belay stance and easier climbing to the top.

Protection

Singles to blue camalot, two bolts.

Photos

That's a good name! Sep 23, 2013