Scallywags

This climb is one of the safest routes at the reef and probably has bigger holds than any other at the grade. Lots of rests, small roofs, a beautiful left angling dihedral with amazing fingerlocks, long moves for me at 5'6", a lot of undercling climbing, and almost no thin holds. There are a few small holds here and there and at the second and third crux but most of the climbing involves large holds for the hands and feet. Having said that two of the cruxes you have to paste a toe.

The line we chose to protect with bolts wanders a lot from left to right then back left following the main weaknesses. There are three distinct cruxes two of which involve poor footholds and one that has a very small crimp or two to move higher.

This section of the wall had and still has a number of old bolts and pins that I assume Ray Ringle placed to explore new route possibilities. These were helpful when Jesse Schultz and I first set up a top-rope to see if a line would go. Ray truly had the vision that these impossible looking walls could be climbed and it lead to Crankbugs, Doubt and all the other lines that exist on this face of Aegir.

The People listed on the FA are the people who worked it with me. New routes are a team effort unless it is a ground up free solo or soloed after solo TRing the climb. Without their belays, good cheer and encouragement my success doing the actual lead FA would not have happened so I include them. These people believe in me and my abilities and pushed me to push even when I doubted it. You all are the best.

Climb starts right of Doubt on the ledge leading to the start of the second pitch of Trident. Look for a pretty left leaning left facing dihedral up immaculate red wall granite.