Type: Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Brian Benedon & Scott McNamara (?)
Page Views: 1,833 total · 11/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This line caught our eye as we were on the way to Coriolis. It's not in any guide. It's the attractive, crackless right-facing corner (see photo), with bolts on Aegir's lower west face. The climbing is fun, with sustained technical stemming and arete climbing. This is the only route I have done at the Reef where I was never scared.

After the corner ends, move right into an easy groove, and then up the moderate slab clipping the last bolt on "Gom Gabbar" (the route to the right). Belay from shrubs, gravel, etc.

[edit]: Brian says below that the route is 155', but we were just barely able to rap back down from the top with a single 60 meter rope so I think it is a fair bit shorter. This also makes it easy to do this and Gom Gabbar quickly back to back without a second rope for a rap line.

Location Suggest change

It is the first route you come to on Aegir's lower west face--about 100(?) feet before Coriolis. One bolt on the wall about 25 feet to the right marks the start of the climb "Gom Gabbar."

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts + hand sized cams for the groove. Well protected--feels out of character for the Reef!