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Routes in Aegir

20th Century Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crankbugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thread Lightly T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trident S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Brian Benedon & Scott McNamara (?)
Page Views: 1,010 total · 10/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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This line caught our eye as we were on the way to Coriolis. It's not in any guide. It's the attractive, crackless right-facing corner (see photo), with bolts on Aegir's lower west face. The climbing is fun, with sustained technical stemming and arete climbing. This is the only route I have done at the Reef where I was never scared.

After the corner ends, move right into an easy groove, and then up the moderate slab clipping the last bolt on "Gom Gabbar" (the route to the right). Belay from shrubs, gravel, etc.

[edit]: Brian says below that the route is 155', but we were just barely able to rap back down from the top with a single 60 meter rope so I think it is a fair bit shorter. This also makes it easy to do this and Gom Gabbar quickly back to back without a second rope for a rap line.


It is the first route you come to on Aegir's lower west face--about 100(?) feet before Coriolis. One bolt on the wall about 25 feet to the right marks the start of the climb "Gom Gabbar."


7 bolts + hand sized cams for the groove. Well protected--feels out of character for the Reef!


Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
Brian Benedon and someone, (maybe Tony??) did that and I think the line to the right.
Both are excellent ways to start the day out there.
Brian? You out there? Oct 12, 2010
brian benedon
brian benedon   tucson
the route; # 14, is called Elacca Drug 5.10, 7 bolts, 155', rack 1/2-4 camalot.
the route curves rt and joins with Gom Gabbar. belay with med cams, sm wire and dead tree.
bbn sm 2001

route # 13. Gom Gabbar 5.9 or 11a, 150', 4 draws,#1 tcu- #4 camalot.
this route is fun crack climbing. the lone bolt is the crux, or climb the dirty groove to start. sm bbn 01

these routes are left of wormsign

we found it easier to walk above the climbs and come down the gully to the rt of coriolis, or better yet, bring an extra line, fix it, and rap in. do all 4 routes for a nice day of climbing.

these routes were gifts, to us, from the gods, for a good deed done. enjoy Oct 18, 2010
brian benedon
brian benedon   tucson
We recently top roped (from above)all four routes on the lower Aegir from one location using two oak trees and then a few directionals.
Don't miss the new approach down the gully in-between the Aegir and Neptune. 7 days ago

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