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Routes in Aegir

20th Century Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crankbugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thread Lightly T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trident S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SG, RR
Page Views: 678 total · 8/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A two pitch climb which joins Reefer Madness in its third pitch. Look for the left leaning flake system on the far right side of the north face of Aegir.

1) Climb the first tier of the flake system. The rock is a bit grungy in the first 20 feet, but flake afterwards is worth it. Save a few 1"-1.5" cams for the belay at the top of the first tier. Approx 80'.

2) Follow the thin crack on your right and pull difficult moves that trend up and left. Undercling the large flake and work up to the narrow ledge. Place some gear to protect your follower and move to the right side of the ledge to belay. This pitch felt significantly harder than 5.10, perhaps I missed something. Approx 50'.

3) Follow Reefer Madness to top.

Protection

Nuts, singles to 4", for doubles of .5" to 1.5".

Photos

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1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11-
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11-
If this route is 5.10 then Rapture of the Steep is 5.9. Oh, and it isn't very straight forward. Aleix saved my bacon by pointing out a hold I had seen from the belay but couldn't see once I was on the route. Pretty cool committing climbing on good rock with just a little more lichen than you would prefer. Jun 24, 2012
Dj telle
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Dj telle   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Just climbed this again and here are some thoughts on the route

Pitch 1 - Burly .10 palms n hands to a ledge.
Pitch 2 - pull hard on layback finger crack with shitty feet up to some bigger holds then hug the giant flake
pitch 3- move right on ledge to .9 finger crack then traverse under giant roof to the right side and belay
pitch 4- 5.6 to the summit (30ft) May 28, 2017
Jared Guglielmo
Tucson, Arizona
 
Jared Guglielmo   Tucson, Arizona
 
Both pitches of this thing would be spectacular after a good scrubbing- I'll make that happen one of the next times I go. The second pitch also felt like one of the greater sandbags I have ever experienced. Jun 21, 2018

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