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Routes in Aegir

20th Century Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crankbugs S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 235 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: EFR,JSt,Clay Mansfield,Geir Hundal, Eric Sophiea,'13
Page Views: 2,310 total, 45/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

I rarely give a route I am involved with 4 stars (seems a little egotistical) until more people have climbed it and there is a concensus. I make an exception here as this one I think deserves it. The bits of lichen in a few areas may take half a star off for some. Two options on the first pitch an 11- left facing corner to a right arching flake or an 11+ face and finger crack 15 ft. to the right. Bring a red blue and a yellow camalot for the first pitch then let the second carry them. Pitch 2 angles up and right past 3 bolts then works up overlaps to a perfect finger crack angling up and left to bolts that take you to the anchors at the end of the second pitch. This airy belay puts you right above your belayer and a 140 foot free rappel to the ground. If you have two ropes leave the second one here as a single 70M rope will get you back to this anchor. Pitch three angles up and left to a horn that can be slung. The flake around the corner that looks bad has been yanked on with full body weight. We now jam and stand on it. From the horn head up aretes past bolts and gear to a short right leaning corner. Long slings for the next 4 or 5 pieces will really help with rope drag. You will finish by working up and right on an ever narrowing ramp with a single bolt visible above it at it's end. Two more bolts lead to the anchors above. If you only have a single 70M rope lower or belay each other about 20 feet down the ramp to climbers right. From here two raps with a 70M down Rogue Planet will get you to the ground.

Location

Cracks left of the main corner weakness on the north face. Works right to the jagged aretes that form the right side of the corner weakness.

Protection

Bolts and gear. 1st pitch singles up to blue camalot unless you do the 11+. After that doubles up to Purple camalot and a set of stoppers from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. Take at least 6 extendable draws and 8 quick draws.
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
“Zebra Question” by Shel Silverstein

I asked the zebra,
Are you black with white stripes?
Or white with black stripes?
And the zebra asked me,
Are you good with bad habits?
Or are you bad with good habits?
Are you noisy with quiet times?
Or are you quiet with noisy times?
Are you happy with some sad days?
Or are you sad with some happy days?
Are you neat with some sloppy ways?
Or are you sloppy with some neat ways?
And on and on and on and on
And on and on he went.
I’ll never ask a zebra
About stripes
Again. Sep 16, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric you can call it whatever you want. Wasn't trying to talk shit or suggest you should change the description, and apparently you can't call it sport/trad (ie mixed) anymore anyway. Just trying to add a relevant comment that I thought people might like to know and give more opinion on gear beta. Sep 14, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
People were getting hurt b/c of the inability to understand the "trad,sport" designation as meaning a mixed climb, so at some point it was decided to call anything with even one placement "trad".

"I've changed the way you categorize routes as shown below. Routes are now either Trad, Sport, or Other, and can no longer be Trad AND Sport." - Nick Wilder

mountainproject.com/v/trad-…

mountainproject.com/v/10901… Sep 10, 2015
Well Kevin, what would you call it then? Brad, sprad, trort? It sounds like you are saying it is a sport route with a little bit of gear. Then of course it is not a sport route it is a trad route. I have been climbing trad routes with bolts on them my whole life which is why I posted it as a trad route. Perhaps what you were trying to say is that it is a really fun trad route because you don't have to lug 20 lbs. of crap up the cliff. Glad you had fun. Sep 10, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This is hardly a trad route, probably 75% bolts with 3-4 small cam placements for each pitch. If I did it again I'd bring singles from 0 C3 to .75 C4 and no nuts. Great route though! It was way more bouldery than I was expecting and the 2nd pitch overhangs like 20 feet!! Sep 8, 2015
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
This climb is outstanding! Both starting options are awesome (the finger crack is perhaps a bit better, imo), the second pitch is just pure fun on super steep jugs, and the third is airy with a devious crux. I'm fairly certain that the second pitch could turn almost any sport climber to the dark side. If you're climbing at the grade, get on it! Jun 26, 2015
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
For me the p2 crux is just past the 3rd bolt. If the route is started on 21st century finger crack rather than 20th century flake, it becomes the best 3 consecutive pitches of 11 climbing I have ever been on. Pitch 1 is fun, but 2 and 3 are insane. Jun 22, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Hey Charles!

The second pitch is solid .11. The crux is close to the end of the pitch. Oct 22, 2014
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
How hard is the second pitch of this route? Oct 20, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
This route is tremendous!! We started on the left side for pitch 1, which is a great warmup for the climbing above. The second and third pitches have great exposure and a bunch of fascinating, unusual moves. On the third pitch, the horn, arete, crux, and ramp make for one of the best pitches at the reef.

On the final pitch look for the ramp on the right as you finish the bolted crux. The route heads up and right toward the ramp using gear for protection.

EFR put up the majority of the ground up with the help of patient belayers. Sep 21, 2013
Eric Sophiea  
 
Fantastic climbing! Endless fun and interesting moves. Standing on the horn that is just off the second belay will make your head explode! Be sure to take a moment and look around from this unique feature. Near the end of pitch three, to get up a ramp with a roof overhead, I did a "crouched duck-walk" (with hands in the crack at your feet and 200 feet of air below you) that was very fun and rather weird (tall guys will hate it). Thanks for the great route! Sep 18, 2013