Type: Trad, 235 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: EFR,JSt,Clay Mansfield,Geir Hundal, Eric Sophiea,'13
Page Views: 3,131 total · 38/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

I rarely give a route I am involved with 4 stars (seems a little egotistical) until more people have climbed it and there is a concensus. I make an exception here as this one I think deserves it. The bits of lichen in a few areas may take half a star off for some. Two options on the first pitch an 11- left facing corner to a right arching flake or an 11+ face and finger crack 15 ft. to the right. Bring a red blue and a yellow camalot for the first pitch then let the second carry them. Pitch 2 angles up and right past 3 bolts then works up overlaps to a perfect finger crack angling up and left to bolts that take you to the anchors at the end of the second pitch. This airy belay puts you right above your belayer and a 140 foot free rappel to the ground. If you have two ropes leave the second one here as a single 70M rope will get you back to this anchor. Pitch three angles up and left to a horn that can be slung. The flake around the corner that looks bad has been yanked on with full body weight. We now jam and stand on it. From the horn head up aretes past bolts and gear to a short right leaning corner. Long slings for the next 4 or 5 pieces will really help with rope drag. You will finish by working up and right on an ever narrowing ramp with a single bolt visible above it at it's end. Two more bolts lead to the anchors above. If you only have a single 70M rope lower or belay each other about 20 feet down the ramp to climbers right. From here two raps with a 70M down Rogue Planet will get you to the ground.

Location

Cracks left of the main corner weakness on the north face. Works right to the jagged aretes that form the right side of the corner weakness.

Protection

Bolts and gear. 1st pitch singles up to blue camalot unless you do the 11+. After that doubles up to Purple camalot and a set of stoppers from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. Take at least 6 extendable draws and 8 quick draws.

Photos