All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 7 - Upper Highway > Reef of Rocks > Aegir
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Aegir
|20th Century Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Crankbugs S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Clay Mansfield, Geir Hundal, 2013|
|Page Views:||1,619 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||Clay Mansfield on Oct 17, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionRogue Planet is a visually striking, direct shot up the NW buttress of Aegir. Plenty of high quality, in-your-face climbing up great features.
The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasnt looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.
P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitchs crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isnt sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.
P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.
Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.