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> Reef of Rocks
> Aegir
Rogue Planet
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Aegir
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20th Century Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Admiral Indubitable T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Africa Flake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Castles Made Of Sand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crankbugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct Madness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Don't Look a Gift Block... T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Doubt S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Ebb and Go S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hard to Port S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heartbreak Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Jitterbugs S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Loki Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Neglect S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Patience S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Reeferless Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Scallywags S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sea Demons T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Soul Deprived S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Starfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trident S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Clay Mansfield, Geir Hundal, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 2,901 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Clay Mansfield on Oct 17, 2013 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Rogue Planet is a visually striking, direct shot up the NW buttress of Aegir. Plenty of high quality, in-your-face climbing up great features.
The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasnt looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.
P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitchs crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isnt sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.
P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.
Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.
The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasnt looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.
P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitchs crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isnt sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.
P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.
Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.
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