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Routes in Aegir

20th Century Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crankbugs S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Direct Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doubt S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Elacca Drug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Thompson Gary Axen, 1974
Page Views: 1,479 total, 17/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

If 5.8 is your limit, this route will keep you on your toes. This is a good route for someone who wants to experience the Reef, but doesn't yet feel ready for the 5.10 climbing on classics like Warm and Free to Rapture and Reefer Madness. There are fun moves on every pitch.

P1: Climb the curving flake and around the right side of the roof (route crux), then up the ramp/corner that leads up left to a belay. This pitch is about 80 feet and I am pretty sure could be linked to P2 with a 60 rope, but I didn't actually attempt it.

P2: The Tarantella variation, 5.9 R leads up left and looks awesome, I checked it out but saw no pro at all for a long ways, so I stuck with the original.

Depending where you belayed, either climb straight up or up and right through short cracks and flakes. Continue up a corner, past a tree, and up easier ground to a belay ledge below a chimney.

P3: there is a massive flake above you, with a visible, cool-looking 5.6 chimney on the right side, and a 5.7 offwidth (not visible) on the left. Having done the latter, I recommend the former. This is a short pitch but would be difficult to link to the last pitch without unbearable drag.

[edit] Came back and did the route a 2nd time, this time with the chimney. The chimney is waaay better than the offwidth; it's really fun, one of the better chimneys around. The route is a solid two stars done this way, I think.

P4: from the belay atop the flake, head up and left, with several variations possible and nice exposure. Stretch the rope out to the top.

Location

Best way to access is to take the ledge system that splits the formations in half. It makes sense to begin with a route on lower Aegir, such as Coriolis. BB itself starts on the far right side of Aegir's upper west face, i.e. the far right end of the ledge system. It starts with a short curving flake that leads to the right end of a long roof band.

Protection

standard rack with optional #5 camalot for the offwidth on P3. I had up to a #3 camalot and the top part was poorly protected. If you do the chimney variation (recommended!) the initial section will be poorly protected without a #4 camalot (new or old). I managed a #4 friend that was uncomfortably tipped-out.
Good memory Aerili. Did this last weekend. A lot of places you do not want to fall off. A number 5 would make you happier if this grade is near your limit. Jul 3, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I remember this route seeming somewhat run-out, but it was a long time ago when I did it. I do remember thinking a new #5 would have been nice to have for p3 (left-facing 5.7 wide flake...or something like that). Jul 2, 2012
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I did this route for the second time and liked it much better than the first time. All the pitches were fun. This time, we did the chimney which was great--much more interesting than the meh offwidth. It's one of the better chimneys around and has a protectable crack in the back the whole way, but since it's flared, the climbing is harder if you squeeze in there--a classic dilemma. A great primer for this type of climbing which must be grappled with in destination areas like Yosemite. Jun 11, 2012
Sasquach Broom
Flagstaff, AZ
Sasquach Broom   Flagstaff, AZ
It sounds like we did the same exact first pitch as you, which was long and really fun. We had no topo so we didn't actually know what we were climbing. For the second pitch, I led straight up the face to the big ledge to the right of the massive roof. The pro was minimal but the climbing was easy enough and pretty fun. (I think the described 5.6 chimney was to my left but the face looked like more fun - not a bad variation to a fun route).

Also, with double ropes you can build an anchor and rap down to do the middle 2 pitches of Reefer Madness (the good ones) which I highly recommend. Traverse under the big roof to the right to grab your gear and top out from there. Jul 15, 2011
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.8
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.8
I know we got off route I think at the very end of the first pitch. I climbed up the fading crack and went up into a sheltered belay stance/cave just past half way on my 70m. Baking in the sun, this seemed to be a good option. Our 2nd pitch we climbed a series of blocks up to a decent belay 100'. From the pictures, we were about 30' left mid 3rd pitch. Last pitch I cheated left, placed one piece and belayed my partner up with no anchor for a mellow finish. The first pitch was awesome, and I wish we would have stayed more left than we did. Jun 7, 2011