The Red Route
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Unknown--Winterized by Nate Brown and Sam Macke 1/22/15|
|Page Views:||638 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Brown on Jan 22, 2015|
DescriptionThis is the best of the three mixed routes. Realistically it is a rock climb with ice and frozen turf here and there. The route would feel a grade harder if climbed while covered with fresh snow. It has excellent climbing, good gear, very hookable, steep and not too hard. Would not be as classic in the summer. (Lots of moss etc.) The first four pitches make a super, well protected M6 trad route.
Not likely a totally new route. We found one shitty pin on pitch 2. Probably an old Andy Carson route.
Pitch 1: 28 meters of M6 with 12-15' of 5.9+ hand crack. Some climbable hollow flakes at the end of the pitch should be given quarter.
Pitch 2: 25 meters of amazing, perfect hooking including about 20' of good ice and frozen moss. M6 with good gear. The plastic ice of dry-tooling. Go five feet right from anchor to start the pitch.
Pitch 3: 22 meters up dihedral under and behind the chock stone. Good ice, moss and some 4/5 Camalot offwidthing. M6 (5.8-ish OW<vert)
Pitch 4: 25 meters of frozen moss, good stemming, some steep hand crack with good stemming and great gear. M5+
Pitch 5: 20 meters. Climb the overhanging and featured OW/hand crack with a series of thuggish hook moves and a few hand jams. Pitch over hangs about 12'. M7
Pitch 5 alternative: climb around final obstacle to the right. Overhanging M6 with good gear and water ice sticks. (Climbed after rapping off top due to a "Doh" of leaving the rack on top.