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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Ryan
Page Views: 1,667 total, 13/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Fun, safe, and steep line up Rock Springs Buttress. The protection is excellent along the entire route and all belays are fixed. The guide gives the route 11b, but it felt a touch soft to me....

To locate the route, look for a huge gnarled tree sitting in a crack about 30 feet high left of the prominent arete on the leftmost side of Rock Springs Buttress. This tree marks the start of the first pitch. The climb begins to the left of the most obvious arete system on the 2nd buttress, and has a nice flat area below the root system of the tree mentioned above. Most of the first pitch is shared with Exum Arete.

Pitch lengths are estimates

Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m) - Head up the gully/corner system past the gnarled tree. When the crack starts getting wide (#3 camalot), move up and right. Continue past the first set of chains and walk along the dirty ledge system. At the end of the ledge system you'll find a bolted belay on a large boulder. This is your anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 25m) - A line of bolts begins off the dirty ledge and climbs up the featured face. Eventually you gain a nice handcrack for about 30 feet, and finally another bolt. Belay at the first anchor (with chains) on the ledge. You can leave your rack here, it is bolted above. I placed a #1, #2, and #3 camalot and a big nut.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 20m) - Follow the bolts up and slighty right of the anchor. The next set of chains is directly below the headwall and is semi-hanging. There is an opportunity for a TCU (red alien size)midway up this pitch if you desire.

Pitch 4 (5.11-, 20m) - Head straight up the imposing headwall past many bolts. Ample stemming helps keep the pump in check. The first half of this pitch is steep and stemmy, the second section slabby and delicate. Hanging belay at the chains.

Pitch 5 (5.11-, 20m) - Step left from the belay directly into thin, technical moves. Continue left past thin edges until gaining the big arete. Follow the line of bolts up the arete, and onto the final headwall.

Linking - One can easily link pitches. I would probably link pitches 2 and 3 if I were to do the route again. One can link pitch 4 and 5, but you would need ALOT of quickdraws and it would be a long, engaging pitch.

Rappel Descent - We had a 70m and rapped as follows. Top of the route to the chains at the base of the last pitch (it looked like the rope BARELY made the next anchor, but we didn't want to test it). On the next rap we skipped the next anchor and JUST made the anchor on top of pitch 2. Next rap was to the top of pitch 1. Then to the ground.

Note: With a 60m rope would you need to use ALL anchors on rappel.

Protection

Mostly bolted. One set of cams from 0.5" to 2" would be plenty. A few long slings are useful. A medium nut could be useful getting to the last bolt on the last pitch.

Photos

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Tyler Barker
Jackson, WY
  5.11
Tyler Barker   Jackson, WY
  5.11
...agreed, if linking pitches 2 and 3 do NOT clip the anchors at the top of pitch 2. The beginning of pitch 3 is further right of the top of pitch 2 than you might expect. Pitch 4 is solid 5.11. Jun 24, 2012
mdaverin
portland,or
  5.11
mdaverin   portland,or
  5.11
If you are going to link pitch 2 and 3 you will want to be careful with your runners. Don’t clip the anchors at the top of p. 2 and put long runners on the 1st 1 or 2 bolts of pitch 3.
I did not think pitch 4 was soft for the grade. I would call it 5.11. (Personally I think number grades are misplaced at RSB.) Pitch 5 seemed more like a 5.10.
Pitch 4 has 9 bolts plus the anchor and pitch 5 has 7 bolts plus the anchor. So to link the two you would want at least 17 draws. Jun 24, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Climbed it again today. Great, well protected route. We placed a #1 and #2 camalot on P2, and an orange metolius master cam (#0.5 camalot would work) on P3. There is a stretch between the last two bolts on the last pitch where a medium nut could come in handy.

Still felt soft, 10+... maybe 11-.

If you are familiar with the Exum Arete, rap that route instead. It is a 5 minute walk from the top, and there are ledges all the way down. 5 raps will be required with a 60m rope. Jul 14, 2008